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First Layer Experiments

RobWLakes

June 28, 2019

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Description

This is an experiment that I ran on my Anet-A8. I was keen to know how critical the Z-gap was for the first layer of the print head above the build board. I had gone through the usual build board levelling procedures a few times and was happy the heated bed was level. However I was suspicious that every time I swapped filaments, handling the print head (squeezing the pressure idler wheel lever) caused some change in the head clearance, mainly effecting the first layer and causing "random" problems with adhesion.

I had fitted a Z-Stop adjuster (Babarikado, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2703393) and was able to use a Philips Head screw driver to make adjustments. Sadly most sides of a Philips Head screwdriver look alike once it begins to turn and I wanted something I could use for some more quantitative testing. I looked up M3 threads and found they have a pitch of 0.5mm, so two complete turns should be 1.0mm. To this end I designed a small 5 sided knob (each side=0.1mm) for the Z-Stop bolt, with an index on one side. This allowed me to make (and remember) how much I had adjusted the Z-stop to get it back into a good working height.

As a result, I made a series of prints of a small rectangular block, and broad "brim" as provided by Cura. How the brim turns out is a good indication of an effective Z-gap for the first, adhesive layer. A small rectangular prism was used as the test print (it takes less than 5 minutes to print) on glass (as the smooth base of the print makes it easier to interpret the extrusion quality). All the trials produced an acceptable print of the model, but the brim gives the best feedback on how to optimise your best Z-gap.

Use a long M3 bolt and an M3 hex nut to attach the indicator knob.

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution