Ender 3 Spotlight LEDs

All original thing designs/references have been included. Please let me know if you feel I have missed your design/used your design without credit.

July 15 - 2019: Major Update
July 16 - Update: I have designed an added a support bar for the (long) version of this support. Using the printer with quick print settings caused a lot more wobble with the longer support - This new addition just fits in between the heated bed and the top support rail (see pictures). It is a 2 piece design as the heat from the heated bed will eventually wear out the clip end, you can just reprint this small clip and preserve the support arm.

I printed the additional piece in white to make it visible. Insert it on a 45 degree angle and rotate it until it clips on to the bed and the support top.

I have totally redesigned the Ender 3 Bed mount, and now offer (2) choices. Pick (1) to print.

** New Ender3 Bed GoPro Mount v7 ** Is standard/stock Ender 3 cooling fan configurations.
** New Ender3 Bed GoPro Mount_long v2 ** is for Bullseye Petsfang / other modified cooling solutions. I have tested only with Bullseye Petsfang.

I have removed the previous Bed mount as it was very flimsy (especially obvious with a fast moving print bed)

Please be patient as I will also provide a wiring diagram.

I have designed this Led Spotlight from scratch. I referenced ** dindo59's ** [Disco Design] as motivation, but had to redesign it as printing at the front of the bed caused hotend strikes ultimately breaking the bed mount. ** https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2842782 **

I shortened the light cans, and made the LED disc light fit perfectly - including an internal support structure that lines up with this led disc 20mm G4 SMD (1210smd) 24led.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00L8VUAVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

NOTE: I unsoldered the pins, and bent / reversed them to overlap the back of the bulb, and fit the spotlight enclosure. You can snip them off entirely if desired.

I also designed the back cap to fit tightly, with a support structure to hold the LED disc light exactly in place. No glue, no screws required.

You have your choice of 2 support arm/pivot arms. One will accept screws to secure it to the spotlight, the other uses a pin system. The pin is oversized on purpose to al you to pressure it in, hopefully holding the led in place during future printing. You might have to play with it a little.

NOTE: I printed the led spotlight and cap with multiple filaments, only one filament (AnyCubic blue) shrunk to the point where the cap was loose. All other (4 or 5) worked exactly as designed.

I have included wire management on the light bar, that fits (tightly) wires to keep them neat. I used AWG 28 security wire, 4 conductor. I suspect cat5e wire can also be made to fit with a little work.

The GoPro Ender 3 bed mount is My Design from scratch. Hats off go to ** Overvolt ** for this original thing which inspired me. ** https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3143896 **

The GoPro 90degree adapter is not my design. It is designed by mark133.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40291/files. This may be needed if you have modified your cooling/hotend from stock. (ie. Petsfang Bullseye)

The LED disc lights require 12v, for the Ender 3 I wired in ** series.** It is very important that you wire your LED's in [ SERIES ] not [ PARALLEL ] I powered them using an XT60 cable connector- as to not modify or hack the Ender 3 original wiring in anyway.
( 12v + 12v = 24v )

If you are selecting the ARM with screws, be very careful not to SPLIT the bracket with an oversized screw. I used Xbox360 screws leftover from many, many Xbox360 repairs.
NOTE: The 11mm T10 screws did split the bracket on a couple of times. Be careful, or use slightly smaller screws.The screws are also used to secure the arm-bracket to the light bar.

Suggestion: Since the bed moves a lot, I used a pencil and 'coiled up' a length of wire to look like a spring, which allows the wire to expand and contract as the printer bed moves. You may also use an elastic band at the top and bottom of this coil, to force it back to shape. (experiment for your needs).

Parts List

qty: 2 - 2cm LED disc lights
qty: 2 - XT60 Connectors/Cable (male/female)
qty: 6 - Screws (11mm T10) from Xbox360 repairs, only 2 needed if using arm_pin.
qty: 1 - 12v toggle switch/other switch
qty: 1 - length of wire - I used 28 AWG
qty: 1 - M5x20 + nut to secure the Lightbar to the bedmount

1 of each STL file (choice of Long / normal bed mounts, and choice of ARM_PIN or ARM_SCREW (only 1 needed)).

I have put a lot of work in to this design. I am new to Fusion360 and I still have a lot of learning to do.

I would very much appreciate you taking a picture of your make, leave a comment, like and collect if you like my design.This will let me know it was worth sharing publicly
I have put my company name in the pieces - this was for fun and for my benefit - I hope this doesn't upset anyone. If you disagree, please don't print/use my design.

If you would like to design a bracket to mount to your printer/bed - I would be happy to include the STL file in this thing, and give you full credit. This way, anyone who wants to make this thing can benefit - not just Creality Ender 3 lovers (like me!).

If you have suggestions please let me know in the comments.

Print Settings

Supports: None,

You may want supports for the Ender 3 Bed mount.

I choose to accept the stringy bottom and cut the excess with a knife after printing, to avoid the usage of excess filament in supports. Its your choice.

Infill: 20 or more for lightbar
20% or more for bed mount
20% for spotlights, and other parts
Adhesion: Skirt or none
Filament used: Priline White, AMZ3D Green, Anycubic Blue, SUNLU yellow, AMZ3d Gray.

If using under 30% infill, I recommend 5 top layers as to not see the infill pattern.

-Enjoy!