3D Printer Electronics Enclosure

I designed this originally to be used with the MPCNC. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3777038 After Redoing pretty much everything on my Ender 3, I decided to make some changes to use this enclosure.

Basis of Design:

1. MKS Gen L controller
2. TMC 2130, with sensorless homing
3. 120V Bed Heat
4. Raspberry Pi for Octoprint
5. Headless
6. Pull as many amps from the controller board - hot end is ran by a Mosfet
7. Integrated power supply
8. Compact
9. Use of Sonoff Wifi Switch to power it on and off from any device.

You will have to orient a couple of parts in your slicer. E_PS needs flipped so you can print without supports. You need (4) E_Leg(s), they need flipped to. Both versions of E_Base files need to be flipped.

The main components are:

MKS Gen L (TMC2130's as the driver boards - More on this below)
Raspberry Pi 3 B+
Buck Converter
Meanwell LRS-100-24 Switching Supply
(2) 40MM fans - 24V
Sonoff Wifi Switch.

Hardware is all 3mm, Various lengths, Nyloc and standard nuts. You will need (2) M3x25 to attach E_PS1.

I have included a Step of the assembly without the top so you can see how everything goes together.

Here are some not so professional YouTube Videos to show how some of the trickier wiring parts need to be done:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9jZrplQPrs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oepT8dVYlXs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIz90tlhOZI

This is all part of my greater plan to finish up an entirely scratch built 3-D Printer. This will be posted in the next couple of months.

There are 2 bases provided, E_Base1 is just thinner, takes less time and less plastic but works just as well. If you are printing this for a 3D Printer, you will need E_PS2. E_PS1 is just for the MPCNC. E_PS2 provides mounting for the 2 most common sizes of SSR and the Mosfet module made by MKS or Big Tree Tech.

I load my board, test and debug (there's a lot of wires in here and if you get it all right the first time, you are a lot better than me).

I have ran a 10 hour print with this box and the active cooling keeps everything manageable. The Power Supply is just warm to the touch and the air on the exhaust is only slightly elevated. When choosing your SSR for the heated bed, go for 3 or 4 times your amps. This will keep things cooler. I have a 500W bed and am using a 20A SSR. (500W / 120V = 4.2A).

If you download, please hit like. If you make this, please post it. If you have questions, I will help.