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Anycubic Kossel SKR 1.3/1.4 Kit w/ Firmware and Mounting 3D Printer File Image 1
Anycubic Kossel SKR 1.3/1.4 Kit w/ Firmware and Mounting 3D Printer File Image 2
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Anycubic Kossel SKR 1.3/1.4 Kit w/ Firmware and Mounting 3D Printer File Image 5
Anycubic Kossel SKR 1.3/1.4 Kit w/ Firmware and Mounting 3D Printer File Image 6
Anycubic Kossel SKR 1.3/1.4 Kit w/ Firmware and Mounting 3D Printer File Image 7
Anycubic Kossel SKR 1.3/1.4 Kit w/ Firmware and Mounting 3D Printer File Image 8
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Anycubic Kossel SKR 1.3/1.4 Kit w/ Firmware and Mounting

rennwaffen avatarrennwaffen

January 3, 2020

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Description

Features:

  • PARANOiD leveling with multiple leveling points
  • Support for BLTouch
  • New PID values for stock V5 and stock bed.
  • Enabled Linear Advance for UART drivers

0.5 Features:

  • Simple config, using the top 75 lines of Configuration.h file
  • Probes now should all be supported, including BLTouch and Version 1 of the Anycubic Probe
  • Boards now include configs for Trigorilla, SKR 1.3, SKR 1.4, and SKR 1.4 Turbo
  • Drivers allow for A4988, TMC2208, and TMC2209 - both also supported in SA mode.
  • BLTouch HS mode is now enabled
  • BLTouch 5V mode is now enabled

Resources:

  • Linear Advance 1.5 Pattern Generator: https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html
  • Teaching Tech Linear Advance Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3yK0lJ8TWM
    Make sure to go over the entire config before compiling to ensure that you have the same settings/parts. Here is a list of my stuff:

Effector (much lighter than the heavy metal stock one):

  • Heatsink Housing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4040288
  • Lower Mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3230635
  • PIP Cable Chain Mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4037913
  • BLTouch Mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4075919
  • Carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2653647

Misc:

  • Cooling duct: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3634597
  • 60mm Fan Mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3537834
    Jay's firmware doesn't account for BLTouch (yet), but I'm sure he'll be adding that soon. Mine is pre-set to work with BLTouch.
  • Calibration Cube: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865
  • Level Test: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3491036
  • AIO Test: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594

PrusaSlic3r:

  • Simply import the config file that is included (.ini). I also included the snapshot of my config.

My personal M665 and M666 values stored here for backup purposes only, but I won't tell you not to use them (just do it at your own risk):

  • M665 L267.20 R132.90 H291.86 S80.00 X-0.20 Y0.31 Z-0.11
  • M666 X-1.10 Y-1.70 Z0.00

Using the new 0.5 version of the RWxP Delta Firmware, you can compile it specifically for your printer. Printers supported are the ACK, KLP, and MPMD.

Instructions:

  • Print the parts first; I suggest printing the full mount, as it's the sexiest.
  • Download and compile the firmware - make sure your axes are designated as pictured.
  • Upload it, and make sure to send an M502 command afterward.
  • Open up Pronterface, and keep your finger on the power switch; send a G28 to test homing
  • Once confirmed that homing works, test probing by sending a G33 P0 command. Again, be ready to shut off the printer.
  • Once confirmed that this works, send a G33 command to level the bed. Go binge watch Hunter x Hunter while waiting.
  • Once finished, print the level test linked above, and see which corners need adjustment. Example (your values will vary):

  • If your M666 values are X-1, Y-1, Z 0, for instance, and it's too close to X, while too far for Z, leave Z at 0 (it's your reference), and send an M666 X-0.8 command, and try again. If X and Y are both too close, while Z is barely sticking, send an M666 X-0.4 Y -0.4 Z0, and follow it up with an M851 adjustment.
    If your M851 value is -2.1 while Z is barely sticking, go with a -2.4. Continue until the 3 corners are even.
  • Once finished with leveling, print a test cube. Measure the cube to ensure it's at 20 mm. If it's 20.5 mm, reduce the M665 R value. Go in 0.2 decrements. If your value is smaller than 20mm, increase the M665 R value until you're right on 20mm. This ensures dimensional accuracy.
  • You shouldn't need to send a G29, especially when using glass. If your M666 values are way off (X-5, Y-1, Z0), you need to adjust the carriages/endstops manually to get them as even you as you possibly can. Avoid G29 like SARS-CoV2; hell, I may even remove it entirely from the next build.

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution

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