Features:
- PARANOiD leveling with multiple leveling points
- Support for BLTouch
- New PID values for stock V5 and stock bed.
- Enabled Linear Advance for UART drivers
0.5 Features:
- Simple config, using the top 75 lines of Configuration.h file
- Probes now should all be supported, including BLTouch and Version 1 of the Anycubic Probe
- Boards now include configs for Trigorilla, SKR 1.3, SKR 1.4, and SKR 1.4 Turbo
- Drivers allow for A4988, TMC2208, and TMC2209 - both also supported in SA mode.
- BLTouch HS mode is now enabled
- BLTouch 5V mode is now enabled
Resources:
Effector (much lighter than the heavy metal stock one):
Misc:
PrusaSlic3r:
- Simply import the config file that is included (.ini). I also included the snapshot of my config.
My personal M665 and M666 values stored here for backup purposes only, but I won't tell you not to use them (just do it at your own risk):
- M665 L267.20 R132.90 H291.86 S80.00 X-0.20 Y0.31 Z-0.11
- M666 X-1.10 Y-1.70 Z0.00
Using the new 0.5 version of the RWxP Delta Firmware, you can compile it specifically for your printer. Printers supported are the ACK, KLP, and MPMD.
Instructions:
- Print the parts first; I suggest printing the full mount, as it's the sexiest.
- Download and compile the firmware - make sure your axes are designated as pictured.
- Upload it, and make sure to send an M502 command afterward.
- Open up Pronterface, and keep your finger on the power switch; send a G28 to test homing
- Once confirmed that homing works, test probing by sending a G33 P0 command. Again, be ready to shut off the printer.
- Once confirmed that this works, send a G33 command to level the bed. Go binge watch Hunter x Hunter while waiting.
- Once finished, print the level test linked above, and see which corners need adjustment. Example (your values will vary):
- If your M666 values are X-1, Y-1, Z 0, for instance, and it's too close to X, while too far for Z, leave Z at 0 (it's your reference), and send an M666 X-0.8 command, and try again. If X and Y are both too close, while Z is barely sticking, send an M666 X-0.4 Y -0.4 Z0, and follow it up with an M851 adjustment.
If your M851 value is -2.1 while Z is barely sticking, go with a -2.4. Continue until the 3 corners are even.
- Once finished with leveling, print a test cube. Measure the cube to ensure it's at 20 mm. If it's 20.5 mm, reduce the M665 R value. Go in 0.2 decrements. If your value is smaller than 20mm, increase the M665 R value until you're right on 20mm. This ensures dimensional accuracy.
- You shouldn't need to send a G29, especially when using glass. If your M666 values are way off (X-5, Y-1, Z0), you need to adjust the carriages/endstops manually to get them as even you as you possibly can. Avoid G29 like SARS-CoV2; hell, I may even remove it entirely from the next build.