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SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 + BLTOUCH + RUNOUT + SENSORLESS HOMING  3D Printer File Image 1
SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 + BLTOUCH + RUNOUT + SENSORLESS HOMING  3D Printer File Image 2
SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 + BLTOUCH + RUNOUT + SENSORLESS HOMING  3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 + BLTOUCH + RUNOUT + SENSORLESS HOMING  3D Printer File Thumbnail 2

SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 + BLTOUCH + RUNOUT + SENSORLESS HOMING

reminisce avatarreminisce

January 31, 2020

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Description

Hello everyone! I wanted to upgrade my Longer LK4 from stock to skr1.4 turbo with TMC2209.

I used the SKR1.4 Turbo marlin version from Github official SKR.14 Turbo folder.
I edited to make it fit my own. You can edit whatever needed to make it yours.
I also wanted to rewire everything (mostly take everything apart and make them longer and put them outside my enclosure (I built IK*A version).

Now, I am not here to discuss my printer or disassembly xD. But here for! SKR 1.4 Turbo setup for Marlin. I have tested and got it to work.

Things you need to know about my files: It has sensorless homing (no mechanical endstops), tmc2209, bltouch and filament runout sensor.

But before using this: YOU MUST READ THIS BELOW and make changes to fit into yours. I am not responsible if you burn out your TMC and such.

Inside the Marlin:

In the Configuration_adv.h:

  1. [find: tmc_smart] -> You must change the current to fit your printer. My motors have higher current so I cranked it to 900. You may need to reduce it.
  2. [find: sensorless_homing] -> You might want to change the sensitivity if you want. You can also change them using gcode using M914. (ex. M914 X100 Y100 to M914 X80 Y80)

In the Configuration.h:

  1. [find: Invert] -> I suggest you upload the firmware then change the direction. Use octoprint or pronterface to move your axis and see if the direction is going the right way. If it is going the wrong way, then change from true to false or vice versa.
  2. [find: Bed_size] -> Check and see if your bed size is correct. If not, change the number.
  3. [find: Nozzle_to_Probe_Offset] -> Depending on what bltouch holder you are using, measure the distance between the nozzle and bltouch probe and enter the correct number.
  4. [find: Graphical LCDs] -> If you are not using REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL GRAPHIC_SMART CONTROLLER (12864 lcd) then you need to comment it out and uncomment the one you use.
    For now, I think that covers the most important ones.
    I suggest you look over Configuration.h as well as configuration_adv.h and see if you want to disable certain features such as babystepping, nozzle park, TMC debug, etc..

Now that's for software here is for the hardware.

Download and unzip the BIGTREETECH folder and find SKR1.4 (Please note: I got this from GitHub)

Open the BTT SKR V1.4 Instruction Manual.pdf from BTT SKR V1.4 folder. Follow the instruction and remove the pins and insert the pins.

NOTE: The instruction says to cut DIAG pins for 2209 but I did not cut them since I am using stall guard sensorless homing.

That should take care of most of the hardware problems.

ONE IMPORTANT MENTION: You need to put BLTOUCH probe wires (black&white wire) to Z MIN endstop on the board.

For the Filament Runout sensor: You need to put it on P1_26. (You can find the board and schematic in the BTT SKR V1.4 Instruction Manual.pdf)

If done correctly, your printer should work fine.

Now you need to tune the speed, PID, and bed leveling to get the ultimate experience.
Good luck!

Feel free to leave comment or question at Comment section

UPDATE: I will soon update this with newest marlin version. Been Busy~
Added pictures for runout sensor (where to plug) and where to plug BLTOUCH

You can tweak the my marlin the following: In the Configuration.h
comment:
//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
and define:
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN P0_10

This will allow you to use the true or the one intended for on the board.
where it says BL TOUCH probe.

If you appreciate, donate~

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution

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