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RC submarine Mystic class DSRV 3D Printer File Image 1
RC submarine Mystic class DSRV 3D Printer File Image 2
RC submarine Mystic class DSRV 3D Printer File Image 3
RC submarine Mystic class DSRV 3D Printer File Image 4
RC submarine Mystic class DSRV 3D Printer File Image 5
RC submarine Mystic class DSRV 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
RC submarine Mystic class DSRV 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
RC submarine Mystic class DSRV 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
RC submarine Mystic class DSRV 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
RC submarine Mystic class DSRV 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5

RC submarine Mystic class DSRV

Ewolve avatarEwolve

December 6, 2020

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Description

Update 2021-05-15: Added a solid one piece model of the Mystic upon request.

Update: Added a DSRV-2 Avalon version, to print it use the stl's for section 2 and 3 upper parts tagged with "DSRV-2 Avalon".

A Mystic class deep-submergence rescue vehicle in scale 1/30 intended for radio control. Designed with ease of printing in mind, along with a high attention to details. Over 1000 individual rivets and bolts!
Included stls for both DSRV-1 Mystic and DSRV-2 Avalon.

This models is a wet hull design, ie the outer shell is flooded when submerged. The electronics are to be located inside a watertight compartment, a WTC, which usually is a plastic pipe with endcaps.

No support needed except for the propeller, the parts are oriented correctly in the stl files for optimal print direction.

Specs:
Roughly 60 hours of print time and 450g filament.
Total length of the hull is 495mm
Prop shaft: 1/8" (3mm)
Fits 2-2.5" WTC

Stand included.

Instruction:
1.Print all the parts, but only either Mystic or Avalon section 2 and 3 upper.
-Print 8x of the "Rescue hatch support" and 2x "Stand"
-Print 2x WTC craddles, either 2" or 2,5" depending on what size of WTC you intend to use.
-Use support for the propeller
-You might need to trim off excessive plastic along the corners of the section 2 & 3 parts, so that the lower and upper hull halves close properly. This is important for the lock to work properly.
-Depending on the tolerance of you printer, the prop shroud might need some help to get moving freely. I used a 3mm drill bit inserted where the prop shaft otherwise should be, and carefully moved the shroud forth and back to grind off irregularities on the ball-link.
-The "Rescue hatch support" might have to be trimmed in length, as it's intentionally slightly too long to compensate for tolerances during printing and assembly.

2.Connect servo linkage to prop shroud
To facilitate installation, connect linkages to the prop shroud before gluing the shroud section to the stern section.

3.Glue the parts together
-Cut 1,75mm filament in ~8mm long bits and insert in the holes as guide pins for aligning the hull sections.

4.The open the lock holding the upper hull in place, gently insert a piece of 1.75mm filament, or any other >2mm object, through the hole at the center of the hull. Don't push too hard as this might break the lock!

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial

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