Artillery Genius flat cables removal project

#Artillery Genius flat cables removal project

Check the README.md / README.html for a better formated version of this text

Final version is the pic with the wires facing outwards. It uses cajacarro2, which is symmetrical to the black one in most of the pics and is done in white. It solves the issue of wire colliding with the spool holder/top of the vertical assembly.

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For Sidewinder X1 check https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4709547 by jorgeantoniogm

##DISCLAIMER

I am in no way responsible of any damage done to your printer or to you. This documentation was hand-made by me while and after I did this mod to my own printer, as is not officially linked to Artillery/Evnovo as a Company at all.

You are going to solder a lot and crimp even more, so you'll need the basic tooling for this.

Please PLEASE label EVERYTHING before you start throwing wires into it, and consider having extra spare parts before starting this project in case any permanent damage is done to the MKS board or any other sensitive component. Use this README as a guide, but check pinouts by yourself before you do permanent changes.

Do a few test prints being physically present for checking any malfunction due to the new wirings. If you notice your stepper motors move the opposite as they were intended, you have misconnected the pins somewhere (1234 instead of 4321). Easiest place to fix that is on the JST-XH connector on the MKS gen L board.

Check space clearance around the wires and in all extreme positions the printer might end at, so you are sure nothing will be too tight or in the way of moving parts.

Label carefully the connectors you will disconnect every time you disassemble the vertical assembly

#BOD

Multi-core silicone-coated wires are preferred for ease of operation of the X/Z stepper motors (lower wire weight and resistance):

• 24AWG wire for signal connection.
• 20AWG wire for power wires: HB, fans and stepper motors.

I estimate the used lengths to be around 35m total for AWG20 and a similar length for AWG24. It's not very precise, i used them for several projects and did a lot of test cuts.

All required screws are M3 from this quite handy kit.

Spacers are optional, and only needed for mounting the wires cover on the extruder cart. I used the 20mm ones from this kit.

Connectors are the matching ones for each component:

• JST-XH and Dupont for the MKS connections and all but HB components.
• JST-VH for HB labeled connections, used for the power wires (HB, fans and stepper motors).

Connections on the lower connections box are done using JST-SM connectors. Watch out: Space is tight there, you'll need to tidy yout wires or the cover won't fit. Also PLEASE label your wires and connectors so you won't mismatch them.

Cable ties, masking tape and cable covers will be your best friends for a while, so be well stocked on that.

Any basic multimeter capable of continuity tests will do the trick.

##X flex - X-axis side to extruder cart

Naming scheme specified on X axis circuit board.

24-pin flat cable from bottom to top, all seen from the flat cable connector end of the extruder circuit board.

X-axis flat cable pin	Connects to	Additional info
1	Heat block +24V	ALSO FAN1+ AND FAN2+
2	Heat block +24V	ALSO FAN1+ AND FAN2+
3	Heat block +24V	ALSO FAN1+ AND FAN2+
4	Heat block +24V	ALSO FAN1+ AND FAN2+
5	Heat block -24V
6	Heat block -24V
7	Heat block -24V
8	Heat block -24V
9	BLTouch R
10	BLTouch B	2 male duponts on the BLTouch connector
11	BLTouch W
12	BLTouch Y
13	FAN2	Hotend cooling fan
14	LED B
15	Thermistor
16	LED G
17	Thermistor
18	LED R
19	FAN1	Part cooling fan
20	LED -
21	Extruder motor Pin 4	Left to right
22	Extruder motor Pin 3	Left to right
23	Extruder motor Pin 2	Left to right
24	Extruder motor Pin 1	Left to right

##Z flex - Base board to X-axis side board

Naming scheme specified on X axis circuit board.

30-pin flat cable from left to right, all seen from the flatcable connector end of the L-shaped middle circuit board.

Z-axis flat cable pin	X axis flat cable pin	Connects to	Additional info
1	1-4	Heat block +24V	ALSO FAN1+ AND FAN1+
2	1-4	Heat block +24V	ALSO FAN1+ AND FAN1+
3	1-4	Heat block +24V	ALSO FAN1+ AND FAN1+
4	1-4	Heat block +24V	ALSO FAN1+ AND FAN1+
5	1-4	Heat block +24V	ALSO FAN1+ AND FAN1+
6	5-8	Heat block -24V
7	5-8	Heat block -24V
8	5-8	Heat block -24V
9	5-8	Heat block -24V
10	11	BLTouch W
11	12	BLTouch Y
12	13	FAN2	Hotend cooling fan
13	14	LED B
14	15	Thermistor
15	16	LED G
16	17	Thermistor
17	18	LED R
18	19	FAN1	Part cooling fan
19	20	LED -
20	21	Extruder motor pin 4
21	22	Extruder motor pin 3
22	23	Extruder motor pin 2
23	24	Extruder motor pin 1
24		X-stop pin 3 (top to bottom)
25	10	BLTouch B	ALSO X-stop pin 2 (top to bottom)
26	9	BLTouch R	ALSO X-stop pin 1 (top to bottom)
27		X motor pin 1	Left to right
28		X motor pin 2	Left to right
29		X motor pin 3	Left to right
30		X motor pin 4	Left to right

##Base board pinout

PCI-like connector for Z axis flex cable.

Upper side:

• PCI-like connector for the Z axis vertical flat cable
• 3-pin filament runout sensor connector. Connects to TFT (I have unplugged it from the TFT on mine, I always use Octoprint so I send the sensor interrupt to a Raspberry Pi). Outermost pin is pin 1 in my scheme.

Lower side:

• BLTouch signal connector. Labeled as S1 and S2
• 24-pin connector for various signal pins. Naming scheme for this list: closest pin to the PCI-like connector is pin 1; first row goes 1-12 right to left; second row goes 13-24 right to left
• +-24V bus, labeled as HB+ and HB-

Base board pin	Corresponds to	Z-axis flat cable pin	Additional info
HB+	+24V for HB+, FAN1+ and FAN2+	1, 2, 3, 4, 5
HB-	-24V for HB-	6, 7, 8, 9
BLTouch pin S1	BLTouch Y	11
BLTouch pin S2	BLTouch W	10
1	+24V for HB+, FAN1+ and FAN2+	1, 2, 3, 4, 5
2	FAN1-	18
3	+24V for HB+, FAN1+ and FAN2+	1, 2, 3, 4, 5
4	FAN2-	12
5	GND for Thermistor	14	Shared ground
6	Thermistor	16
7	X-stop Pin 3	24
8	GND for X-stop pin 2	25	Shared ground
9	X-stop pin 1	26
10	Filament runout pin 3		Goes to TFT board
11	Filament runout pin 2		Goes to TFT board
12	Filament runout pin 1		Goes to TFT board
13	LED B	13	Shared ground
14	LED G	15
15	LED R	17
16	GND for LEDs (LED-)	19	Shared ground
17	Extruder motor pin 4	20
18	Extruder motor pin 3	21
19	Extruder motor pin 2	22
20	Extruder motor pin 1	23
21	X motor pin 4	30
22	X motor pin 3	29
23	X motor pin 2	28
24	X motor pin 1	27

Rewiring simplifications

There are a few duplicated wires you can get rid of so the final amount of routed wires is lower:

• Shared ground: You can connect all four to the same wire from the MKS gen L board or just use a single GND pin, and then connect them in parallel as you arrive to each destination. I did the former, as I hate seeing half populated micro JST connections.
  • BLTouch B
  • X-stop pin 2
  • LED-
  • Thermistor
• +24V rail: power delivery. I used 2x 20AWG wire and connected all three destinations in parallel.
  • HB+
  • FAN1+
  • FAN2+
• +5VDC rail: for lightning sensor lights. Connect both to the same wire and connect in parallel as you arrive to each destination.
  • X-stop pin 1
  • BLTouch R

Mounting boxes

• cajacarro - extruder cart:

  • Dont remove the black spacer between the back of the extruder motor nor the spacers already in place. Screw facing right.
  • Maze the wires before screwing the cajacarro_tapa cover
  • cajacarro_tapa_cables is just a cosmetic cover for better hiding the wires. Use some spacers, optimal length is 20mm.

• cajaarriba - X axis side:

  • This time do remove the black spacer part. Its thickness was already taken account of.
  • Mount the x-stop the same way as originally mounted: its head should face INWARDS, towards the X axis. If you mount it facing outwards, it will NOT sense the extruder cart and won't trigger a signal for the board to stop the x motor.
  • Maze the wires before screwing the cajaarriba_tapa cover

• cajaabajo - base :

  • Tape a long-enough screw to thehole in the inside. Space is too tight for placing a nut on the underside of the main body, and this screw only locks the box in place.
  • screw the legs on the remaining 2 screws left over by the removal of the base board
  • cover is tightly fit then screwed on the top. Check the half cylinder is properly aligned before screwing