Yet Another Nerd Solution - CR10 MK10S/Micro Swiss j-Head hot end adapter for Eryone 3D printers

Disclaimer:
Use this thing at your own risk, it works for me, you are modifying the 3D printer. The author or the hosting site cannot be held responsible if anything goes wrong and messes up your print, machine or if your house catches fire. Use common sense and always wear proper protective gear when using power tools, grinders, drills, etc.

Note: If you are not prepared to cut out the bottom plate on the housing (the cut-out allows the proper fitting of the adaptor and clears the heat block), stop here and do not proceed further.

An important update: This thing is no longer to be updated, for a better mod please refer to these things:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5059363 or
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5322702

Updated: v2.0 -unibody with hot end fix.

Being upset with the stock hot end ([Poor heat sink cooling (wrong placement of heat sink with respect to blower fan), unreliable thermistor security (the thermistor is just being held by the silicon sock, E0 errors), unstable heat block (loosen heat break, layer shifting), etc.], this is an experiment for an alternative, reuse everything but the stock hot end, designed with cable management inside the housing.

v2.0 adapter:/Quality-0.2mm; /Top/Bottom-ironing on all surfaces; /Infill-40%; /Support-tree.

PC4-M10 extension: /Quality-0.1mm, line width 0.4mm, wall width 0.4mm (see attached Cura 4.11.0 settings); /Infill-40%; /Top/Bottom-ironing on all surfaces /Support-no, hex shape on the top.

Hot end fix: /Quality-0.1mm; /Infill-40%; /Support-no; /Top/Bottom-ironing on all surfaces.
The bigger hole faces up for filament auto-alignment.
Idea from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4225100Adapting

The length of the PTFE varies from 38mm to 42 mm (different vendor has their own design), squarely cut on both ends, slightly hand flare the top end that contact with the PC4-M10 fitting with a 4mm/11-64 drill bit.

After assembling the adapter with the hot end, route all cables, fix the adapter into the housing with 2 screws, hand tight the PC4-10 extension into the adapter, put in the PTFE tube (flared end up),*** the washer (larger hole up for auto filament alignment), put in the PC4-M10, hand tight it, there should be around 2-3 threads visible between the extension and PC4-10, then push the PTFE tube from the extruder all the way into the PC4-M10.

*** To make the hot end fix work properly, the PTFE is protruded above 2-3mm above the base of the extension, once the washer and the PC4-10 are tightened, the PTFE is being kept again at the bottom of the throat, eliminating the moving up and down movement.

BoM: 4 counts of M3 x 14mm, Two each for the housing and adapter.

This adaptor is not compatible with the MK8 hot end. For MK8: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4881419

Sources: MK10S J-Head Hot end for CR-10 CR-10S

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32920925766.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.419c4c4dhlahRl
Verified by Jay Burkette: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtRnEpIO-6o