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Customizable Hex Wall Lamp

nitrocubane avatarnitrocubane

October 16, 2021

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Description

I loved the concept of this design and others like it, but wanted to make some key adjustments. I really liked the blacked out hex Jan Grønkilde (DeDane1970 https://www.thingiverse.com/dedane1970/designs) made for mounting the ESP8366 development board and other wiring (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4831115) but didn't like that it was a different height from the other hexes. I ended up making all of the other boxes taller in order to move the diffusers away from lights some to try to hide the individual light sources a little better.

Added a design for a wall mounting hex. It has a keyhole mount in the middle of it to screw into a drywall anchor and a flared base so that other hexes around it can be glued more securely than just side to side to try to distribute the weight more evenly. Also have included a model for a small plastic tie that can be glued between the bases of two adjacent hexes for a secure attachment.

Models are printed in Hatchbox PLA, black for the bases and glow in the dark for the tops. I had some used a hobby knife to shave down the corners on the top pieces to make them fit since my print settings weren't totally optimized.

After determining the desired layout and the specific hexes needed are printed, everything was glued together anchored to the wall mounting hexes. The LED strip was snaked through all the holes, stuck to the walls, and super glued. The sizing of the hexes and the holes between them is such that the LEDs are perfectly spaced to have an LED in every corner and two along each wall. The even spacing makes the whole thing go together very smoothly. Would love to say it was planned but it was a happy accident.

Lights are a 300 individually addressable LED strip (WS2812B RGB 5050SMD) from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDTEJBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1)

They are controlled by a ESP8266 ESP-12E wifi enabled development board. (super cheap on amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HF44GBT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but be prepared for at least one of them to be dead on arrival)

It is powered by a 5V 15A power supply.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXN7MN3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with power adapted from the barrel pug to the electronics with a pigtail cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LPFF7G5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I also put in a power switch, but generally just keep the power on and turn the lights on and off in the app.

The board is running WLED to enable app control of the LEDs. A key trick for this build was to change the order of the LEDs in the software so that the lights change per hexagon rather than along the winding path of the LED strip.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9d29SBWA4Qs This video is a great resource for getting started with WLED on this development board. Check out the documentation for WLED here https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9d29SBWA4Qs

Make sure you power the lights in parallel with the control board, not through it. Running the current through the circuit board for 300 lights will cause the board to catch on fire in your living room don't ask me how I know this. Also be careful not to turn the brightness (and current draw) higher than the rated current for your cables and adapters or you can start to melt things.

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution

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