Anycubic Chiron SKR 2 Conversion Set

This is a conversion kit to slap a SKR 2 into your AnyCubic Chiron (SKR 1.4 also probably works because they have the same mounting holes and similar layout).

The Holes that need to be drilled into the side of the chassis (if you aren't just planning to go through the holes that already exist) are from left to right viewing from the outside 16mm 16mm 18mm.

I recommend you use a step drill bit to drill these holes and make sure you don't hit anything behind where you drill.

No supports needed

#Parts you need to acquire:

• ~10-20 - M3 X D4.6 X L4.5 Knurled Brass Threaded Inserts, (Here's an example link)

• 1 - Micro SD to SD Card Extension (Here's an example link)

  I haven't tested this because I decided to got the Klipper route, but I see no reason why it shouldn't work since it just extends the microsd card slot and replaces the built in slot in the Anycubic Chiron chassis.

• 1 - Mini USB panel mount extension cable. (Here's an example link)

  This part goes exactly in the place of the build in USB plug

• 1 - 90 degree Mini USB extension (Here's an example link)

• Alternatively to the 2 usb cables above, while finding the links to put in this description I happened upon this one, with the 90 degree built in. You probably should go with this.

• 2 - M2 x 6mm bolts

  These are for the sd card slot.

• 4 - M3 x 20mm bolts

  These are for attaching the fan and motherboard cover to the motherboard bracket

• All the previous bolts you had from taking off the original board, or 5 - M3 x 6-12mm bolts

• ~4 - typical 5.4mm flat side to flat side nuts (if you don't have enough inserts) (there are 2 versions of the spacers used to space out the bottom cover to fit the higher stepper driver heat sinks)

• A ferrule set and crimps (You don't need it, but you want it, and to get rid of all the crappy tinned wire ends the printer comes with)

• 24v 5015 Fan for the stepper drivers

• 2 - 20mm x 80mm Proto PCB

  This is for the external connections

• JST XH Connector set with range of at least 2 to 5 pin connectors and the relevant crimping tool for that. I like the IWS-3220 Crimper Tool

• 22 AWG Silicone Wire Assorted Box (Here's an example link)

• 1 - Hot glue gun

• 1 - Soldering Iron and solder (I like SN100Ni+)

#Assembly Instructions

• Insert heat set inserts wherever they need to go.

• Get the internal power supply cable cleaned up (I extended it by soldering on 2 extra pieces of wire, and used various pieces of heat shrink to insulate the weird wire setup the printer comes with where the ground is outside the power line and is exposed.

• Add ferrules where needs be.

• Move installed fan lower to blow over the already installed bed mosfet. *The board will be cooled by separate 5015

• Drill holes in close enough pattern to as visualized above.

• Drill 3mm holes for the usb panel mount extension but putting the extension in place and using the a smaller bit to mark the holes through the panel mounts holes.

• Solder the appropriate connectors as visualized to each of the boards. Count the holes to figure out placement

• Crimp the appropriate connectors for the board and your hotend. (I recommend you cut wires to length as things are mounted and never cut to shot, because you cant cut a wire longer)

• Plug in all cabling that routes behind the board now, because its harder to access later. That's the USB extension cables, Power, and SD card cable.

• Hot glue the board into place. (Just hold it in place such that the connectors are accessible from the outside and glob around it. This should hold both the faceplates and the connectors in (dont get glue in the connector, glue the 2 proto boards instead))

• Install motherboard bracket

• Install motherboard into motherboard bracket

• Install the rest of the wires.

• Install fan.

• Install motherboard cover.

• Reinstall cover using spacers provided.

Feel free to ask questions. I'm aware these aren't the most detailed instructions, but given how niche this is I figured its not worth the time to get too in depth.