November 23, 2021
Description
After a couple different field tests from friends I can only recommend this mod be used with small tires, under 4.3 inch (109mm) diameter. There is just too much stress and the less rigid 3d printed material will cause your gears to skip and possibly break. I have been running this mod on a 4.3 build for well over a year now with no issues, I don't baby it or anything like that, but on a rig with 4.7" (120mm) tires the diff cover flexes and damages the gears even while just climbing a high traction rock with overdrive.
Updated 1/26/23
I have added 4 new front skids, they have been narrowed for applications where the tire might rub on the wider ones. There are variations for lowered chassis (using the Knight Customs diff mounts) and TRD logos.
Revised 11-18-22
If you have the Associated Element Enduro IFS kit or a truck that came stock with IFS like the Knight Runner you know the stock forward ground clearance is terrible, it looks like a setup more suitable for carpet racing than rock crawling.
This modification will increase your Element IFS ground clearance significantly without jacking up your suspension geometry. It basically just moves the lower arm mount points vertically 9mm and ditches the bulky stock differential skid plate assembly. There are a few options but it's not too complicated.
I have uploaded pics of the new setup including a view of the clearance next to the stock setup, it's a dramatic change. With the driveshafts parallel to the ground clearance is the same in the middle, with a little lift you can see anywhere from that to a 15mm improvement over the straight axle. In my pics the front rests with the arms angled downward slightly, this gives a 5mm boost over the straight axle
Onto the options! For each front skid there are TRD and unmarked variations available in lowered and standard varieties.
If you want to use the Knight Customs diff lowering mounts you will need the forward and middle skid plates with "LoweredChassis" in the name.
With the stock diff hangers use the regular forward skid and optional rearward skid, without lowering it the stock skid can be re-used with some trimming to clear the diff input.
The printed hubs are optional if you purchase some additional hardware. Most critically, you will need some lower profile pivot balls to mount on the INSIDE of the stock steering hub. You can either use the original ball studs in the stock position to mount them on the inside or purchase some M3 screws with a 4mmx4mm shoulder so you don't have an unused pivot ball just hanging out there. In the pics I just used a tapered screw, this will not stay tight, I have the correct screws on the way.
Remember Whether you're using the printed or original hubs (with new hardware) you must mount the lower pivot balls on the inside of the hub/knuckle.
For any variation you will have to trim some of the shock mount inside the arm off to clear the driveshaft. If you're going with the stock steering hubs (recommended for strength) you will need to trim some of the material off on the end to clear the U joint. not much is needed just a few millimeters of material.
AvidRC sells appropriate pivot balls, 5.8mm fits well, you will need 2, they come in sets of 4. https://www.avidrc.com/product/5/accessories/1500/Titanium-Pivot-Balls-58mm-4-Pack-AV1631-accessories.html
I got the shoulder screws from McMaster Carr, other online suppliers carry them but they were in stock here. https://www.mcmaster.com/90323A211/
License:
Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - Share Alike