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CR-10 S v2 v3 Raised Legs 3D Printer File Image 1
CR-10 S v2 v3 Raised Legs 3D Printer File Image 2
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CR-10 S v2 v3 Raised Legs

Justinthursday avatarJustinthursday

January 18, 2022

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Description

These are 120mm(CR-10 v2 and v3) and 140mm(CR-10 and 10S) tall legs to raise your printer tall enough to fit the control box underneath. The CR-10 and CR-10S will require an extension cable for the bed but the CR-10 v2 and v3 cables are long enough as is.
I couldn't find a bed cable on it's own but it turned out to be very handy to have all of these other cables on hand for repairs and other upgrades:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKVX5D4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use the stock rubber feet currently on your printer underneath these legs. It just requires an M5 or M6 screw and nut. Or use 1/4" craft cork and double sided tape.

Both legs have screw hole patterns for all of the mentioned CR-10 models but because the v2/v3 has much longer rubber feet you will want to use the 120mm version for the v2/v3. The 140mm version should be used for a CR-10 or 10S. This will give you roughly 30mm between the top of the control box and the bottom of the printer frame.

You could also scale them in one axis to adjust the overall height but keep in mind the thickness of where the screws mount. Too thin and it could be too weak. Too thick and you'll need longer screws.

Use the stock screws for the CR-10 and 10S. The v2/v3 only has one screw per foot so you will want to use that screw and and additional two to three M5 hammerhead nuts and M5x6mm screws per leg. I recommend four screws per leg total.

I printed them with the front of the legs flat on the bed for a nice texture on the most visible side. You should only need a minimal amount of supports for the screw holes. Print them at 100% infill so that your screws don't crush them when tightened against the frame.

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution

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