Deluxe Pool Set HO Scale (1:87)

Well, I got a little ambitious this time around - and I went and designed this thing.
I got really fed up with a general lack of certain commonly found things in the average
"Merican's" back yard that I see around from time to time that can be reproduced in model form for my fellow hobby railroad and model building mavens - not being found too often. I've seen a few pools available, a few pool toys, etc., here and there, but nothing in a kit form that touches as many bases as you can when reproducing it
with a 3d filament printer. I wanted a swimming pool kit with lots of options - including
a pool cover for in the off seasons when it would not be in use.

You can basically build this setup anyway that you want to. You can omit the shed and go with just the pool, You can use any one of six deck sizes or go without a deck at all, you can have two sets of steps up to the deck from ground level - one on either side of the deck - or just one set of steps on one side of your pool deck, with the other side railed up. It's all about what you want. paint this kit any way that you want - My promo image doesn't have to be a hill to die on, you can paint and weather this model any way that you want to.

You should be able to print this model in either ABS or PLA (I prefer ABS personally because it works with a lot of different "over the counter" cements and adhesives).

If you like PLA - go with a CA (Cyanoacrylate) type glue such as "Super Glue", "Crazy Glue", "Gorilla" brand CA glue, etc..

If printing in ABS simply use either a CA glue - or a regular' ole plastic model kit glue like
"Testors" brand plastic model cement, "Humbrol" brand model cement, "Tamiya" brand model cement, "Plastruct" brand, "Sqaudron" brand, etc.. Testors is my brand of choice for ABS - works terrifically! DO NOT USE THERMALLY REACTIVE (warming) TWO PART EPOXYS!

If you are printing in ABS on a standard filament extrusion printer such as the Creality Series of printers (Ender 3, Ender 5, CR10, etc.) - make sure that you print your parts in an enclosure or heat tent such as the tent sold by Creality For it's Ender series printers and that your heating bed is properly pre-heated.

Also - make sure that you print at a relatively slow or modest speed. When printing, I would suggest a relatively slower printing speed than your probably use to. Whenever I print I use a retraction setting of 1mm, and a 0.4mm nozzle.

Before removing printed parts from the build plate / printing surface - make sure that your bed and the parts on it are completely cooled down - DO NOT BE IN A RUSH!

If parts get stuck, gently and SLOWLY work small parts and details off of your printing surface with a tool like a putty knife, modelling / printing spatula, etc..

If you have a removeable glass building surface - you can also remove the glass plate with the small parts intact, and gently dab the parts with a paper towel wetted with a coldsolution of dish washing liquid and water. DO NOT HANDLE THE BUILD SURFACE UNTIL THE GLASS HAS COOLED DOWN ENOUGH!

You'll probably need a few basic tools to build this thing once it's done printing.
I would suggest tweezers, fine and medium grit sand paper or some fingernail
emery boards (your girlfriend, wife, sister, mother, etc., might have a few to spare), a hobby knife, and some masking tape for when you decide to paint it up.

Haven't printed anything lately however, because my printer is currently out of order, (hopefully not for long).

I would say that specifically only two parts in this kit need rafts - the UMBELLA ROD, and maybe the UMBRELLA BODY. The UMBRELLA ROD should be printed in a standing, vertical position - with the "GLUE PIN" facing up - and it should be anchored by a raft when it is being printed.

The umbrella body should be printed upside down so that it looks like a bowl - and a raft should also be used for this part because the part's geometry may lend itself to having a slightly better chance of being dragged out of position by the nozzle should a problem occurr - all of the other parts should use a brim.

The SUMP HOSE part is a little pecular.If it doesn't print out right - then try reprinting it with supports - or replace it with a piece of wire of roughly the same thickness, or make one out of old model kit sprues if you have a few laying around.

Keep your printed parts in a large "zip lock" type sandwich / storage bag so that you don't lose them. I can't tell you how many times I have bought model kits and lost small parts that I have cut off of sprues because they either got stuck to something and fell off, or somehow fell out of the retail box.

SCREEN GRAB AND RETAIN THE INSTRUCTIONAL IMAGES ON THE THING IMAGE WINDOW THAT CONTAIN ASSEMBLY DIRECTIONS!

Feel free to make mods, remixes, and variants of this thing and repost them - but DO NOT sell them (it or any derivatives) - or post them on any site that requires an access or subscription fee of any kind to access it.

HAVE FUN!!!