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Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Image 1
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Image 2
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Image 3
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Image 4
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Image 5
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Image 6
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Image 7
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Thumbnail 6
Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer 3D Printer File Thumbnail 7

Ender 3 V2 (Neo) OctoPi Drawer

thirdearthdesign avatarthirdearthdesign

February 2, 2023

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Description

Replace your Ender 3 V2 (Neo) tool drawer with your OctoPrint powered Raspberry Pi.

Designed as a direct replacement for the included tool storage drawer, also takes advantage of the original drawers latching mechanism and side runners to hold everything firmly in place.

It sports a honeycomb vent design on the front, and also incorporates two push-fit button / LED mounting holes for lights and switches.

I'm using the 'ShutdownButtonLEDBuzzer' Octoprint plugin to illuminate a LED, which indicates when OctoPrint is ready, as well as a push-button to manually trigger a clean shut-down of OctoPi. I've colour matched my LED to the one that's included in the Ender 3 V2 Neo CR touch to make it extra snazzy,

Just screw mount the Raspberry Pi to the drawer base. I used recessed M2.5 screws that screw into a heat-sink from the bottom up. Then it's just a case of connecting your power, USB and ethernet (if using).

To make the cable connections easier it is advisable to use cables with the lowest profile connectors possible, though typical size connectors do just about fit.

Two designs are provided. One has a full honeycomb vent front panel, which means you need to run your cable entry internally (I drilled a hole in the base of the stock drawer frame). The other has a front panel cable entry, which means no mods of the standard Creality printer parts are required.

Note that supports will be required when printing as the front panel has a bottom lip, so the base of the drawer sits at a different height. Supports aren't necessary on the honeycomb pattern, but will be required on the front cable entry cut-out.

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial

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