Master Sword from The Legend of Zelda: A Link to the Past

Update: Made a sword newbie mistake. Didn't consider the weakness of vertical print when I made the connections. I've hollowed out the joint areas and included an insert to join the blade portions. As long as the joiner is printed with a thicker fill, I think it should be more durable. I probably should investigate the rod inserts.

My interpretation of the master sword as illustrated in the Nintendo Player's Guide for The Legend of Zelda: A Link to the Past page 42.

As a child of the 80s/90s, the NES and Super Nintendo were important consoles in my life. I did own and play Zelda 2 but A Link to the Past was the game that made me fall into love with a Legend of Zelda. As the years pass, more love was shown to Ocarina of Time for technical marvels and Breath of the Wild for sheer volume of content but I wanted to have some tribute to the game that was most important to me.

This model is based on the Player's Guide images that I had seen many times growing up. I did take some liberties compared to other master swords. Such as the grip is oval shaped so that it is aligned with the blade as is common with real swords and I tried to the keep blade thickness to a minimum at 10mm.

The blade is sized to the original illustration. I cut it to fit the common build height of 250mm. I can cut the blade different for shorter lengths if desired.

Parts:
Cross Guard - Center piece that links both the grip and blade. There is keying for both of them. Both sides will need glued with help of the pin for alignment.

Hilt Center - should be named grip but no matter. This acts as the connection point for a human hand. Swooshing noises not included. Also the pommel is slotted on the end.

Hilt Sides - Decorative pieces that are keyed for gluing onto the center. This is a proper top and bottom since the hilt center is angled.

Blade pieces - Each piece is keyed and should slide into each. Friction works a bit but glue may be necessary long term. Total blade is 884.821 mm from tip to base. Each piece is no more then 241mm tall and should print in most printers standing up.

Printing:
All part that require multiples have been marked in the file name. Most parts should be laid flat except the blade pieces and hilt center (print with wider portion on the plate). Supports are necessary but are very small and will not mar any beauty surfaces.

I hope this can be enjoyed.