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Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Image 1
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Image 2
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Image 3
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Image 4
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Image 5
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Image 6
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Image 7
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Thumbnail 6
Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1 3D Printer File Thumbnail 7

Cable Pocket - Ikea Lack + Ender 3 S1

jodill avatarjodill

March 17, 2023

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Description

In order to fit an Ender 3 S1 into the popular Ikea Lack shelf, the problem with the height of the printer must first be solved. How I realised this can be seen in another post on my profile.
If you decide to use a closed version, you run into the problem that the bedcable takes up too much space at the back. My solution is this cable pocket, into which the cable can reach without touching it.
The advantage of such a pocket over a cut-out in the rear wall is that it prevents dust and cold air from getting into the compartment.
Since my first version was too short, I decided to print an extension instead of scrapping the old print.
I installed it as follows: I marked the approximate location on the window first. Then I put the frame for the inside on top and precisely marked out the holes and the large cut-out. I drilled the holes with a Dremel and used a cutter to cut the large hole. In the next step, all the parts are bolted together with M3 screws and nuts.

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution

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