20mm conduit stake-styled anchor for garden net/frost cover frame/trellis

WARNING: DO NOT USE THIS FOR ELECTRICAL PURPOSES, THE BOLT HOLES (IF USED) WOULD GO THROUGH THE WIRES, THIS IS FOR GARDEN/OUTDOOR FRAME WORK PURPOSES ONLY.

WHY 20MM CONDUIT?

I use a lot of 20mm electrical conduit to support my frost covers, netting, and 2D/3D trellises. Some use them for hoop houses and green houses too.

I like the 20mm conduit because it's very cheap, available everywhere, lasts for ages, is flexible, and yet, with the right structure... it's quite rigid. However, the connectors to create fanciful 2D/3D structures aren't available, and the commercial connectors are for electrical purposes only.. no where NEAR strong enough to handle the weight/stresses of bent conduit, particularly in windy (or worse yet, snowy) locations.

Also, 20mm conduit, if combined with frost covering, can use 50mm bulldog clips to attach/anchor the fabric, this further reinforces the frame too.

WHY THIS WEIRD STAKE LIKE DESIGN?

Well I created a whole series of connectors for 20mm conduit (See below for links). Seriously, why be boring with rectangular frames and trellises? However, all frames need some way to touch the ground, and if you only have dirt to work with, then a stake hammered into the ground seems like a logical choice. This is a good start, but the strength of this model is as a temporary fixture to hold bent hoops into softer ground as you work on attaching and bending other parts of your conduit based frame. While I have used this model for weeks on end without issue, it's not a deep stake, and so it has issues in softer soils. Yet it works well, particularly in raised beds and pots by placing the flat side against the inside of the rim. The tapered side, helps to keep the stake against the pot/bed wall so this helps to steer clear of the roots. If you want to be REALLY prepared, then I suggest a deeper, longer stake/star picket, then lash this to that for extra reinforcement.

If you're looking for the rest of this 20mm conduit series, have a look here:

1-Way "Screw down" anchor found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6228135

2-Way "Straight" connector found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6187349

2-Way "Right-Angle" Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6188056

3-Way "T-connector" found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6163480

3-Way, "Y-connector" found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181085

4-Way "cross" connector, found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6163584

5-Way:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181104

6-Way :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6181111

7-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6187567

8-Way found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6167506

Half 8-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6195584

Quarter 8-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6196723

9-Way Connector:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6190630

10-Way found here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6182651

My design basis (for all of these connectors) has three things going for it:

• It can be easily printed without ANY supports whatsoever.
• It is FAR stronger than commercial connectors, and takes advantage of "laid flat" orientation to minimise the weaknesses involved in layered FDM printing) and if that isn't enough...
• I included M4 bolt holes so you can simultaneously:

a) Lock the conduit into the connector using the bolt. (Drill a hole through the conduit first, obviously)

b) Use the M4 bolt to ensure the layers of the connector are held together, even under significant strain.

NOTES:

While I don't recommend PLA for this purpose, (It's exposed to UV and water after all) I chose to use PETG and protect the conduit from UV by wrapping it in duct tape. It's working well so far, but we'll see how it's going after a couple of seasons.