For my Quest 2 version, go here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4671658
This is a headstrap for the Quest 3. I got tired of waiting for the one I ordered so I decided to just convert my Q2 design.
As the speaker "wings" are twisted by design, these may be a bit tricky to coax into place. I usually just put a ziptie on there to make sure they don't pop off. Something else you can do is heat up the print and twist it if you prefer.
I strongly suggest printing this as well:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4623392
This is intended for use with 30mm elastic bands, but any width should be fine, you just may have them slide a little bit if they're smaller.
The gear rack parts need to be printed in ABS or Nylon - or similar firm but flexible filament.
NOTE:
I added a threaded version of KnobAxle and a version for a heat insert. The heat insert version is probably more durable, but it requires you to have quality inserts that work well.
You will need the following hardware:
- 4x countersunk M3 bolts. At least M3x10, but M3x15 is better
- 1x M3x5 bolt(for the central axle to keep it from falling out)
- M3 Nyloc bolts
- 1x 4mm OD compression spring
- 1x 3.92 bearing ball(they're in skateboard bearings, the ones named 608zz)
- Some suited glue to glue the knob on the gear axle
- Two pieces of 30mm elastic band to mount to the speaker caps and the gear rack parts
- Velcro to make the top strap(or you can re-use the default one if you don't mind that)
- A way to join the elastic and velcro together. I opted for sewing, but do it however you want
- 3x M3 nuts and 3x M3x10 or longer bolts to attach the battery mount to the back
- Optional but HIGHLY! recommended: A counterweight of some sort. Shoot for around 500g or so to balance out the weight of the headset. A power bank is highly suited. I added a power bank mount that you can either to ziptie a power bank onto or glue one onto. After that, it is attached with 3 bolts and easily unattached later if needed.
Anarasha
