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MiSTer Addons SCART Reflex Mounting Clamp for Retro Tink 4K 3D Printer File Image 1
MiSTer Addons SCART Reflex Mounting Clamp for Retro Tink 4K 3D Printer File Image 2
MiSTer Addons SCART Reflex Mounting Clamp for Retro Tink 4K 3D Printer File Image 3
MiSTer Addons SCART Reflex Mounting Clamp for Retro Tink 4K 3D Printer File Image 4
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MiSTer Addons SCART Reflex Mounting Clamp for Retro Tink 4K 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
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MiSTer Addons SCART Reflex Mounting Clamp for Retro Tink 4K

YLFAndy avatarYLFAndy

February 19, 2025

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Description

The Tink4K has a very loose SCART connector. This is great for protecting the Tink itself from bad SCART ends, but makes keeping the cable seated a problem, especially since a lot of cables are very thick and the Tink is very light. Using the two mounting brackets provided on the Tink, I've added 2 5mm x 6mm M4 standoffs and created a printed tray/brace that holds the cable tightly in place.

I've added a no-support version as well, which doesn't have overhangs.

Lastly, I've added a bonus design specifically for the MiSTer Armor cases, which is ugly but which solves the problem on the other end of the SCART cable. The MiSTer side uses a 10 pin DIN and it tends to be floppy and fall out easily owing to how far up the case it is and how heavy and non-flexible the strain relief is. This uses the negative space between the HDMI bridge and the aluminum case as a support point and uses the firm seating of the HDMI bridge to hold the cable. It works very well, but covers up the debug port and, as mentioned, is not pretty.

Known issues:
The screw under the bend is really hard to access. I could potentially add a through-hole driver access to the bend, but it would likely cause problems with the integrity of the brace and also it'd look bad. The solution I used was a pair of needle nose pliers with some heat shrink on the tips. Knurled thumb screws would also work, as would low profile 90 degree drivers. Once it's in, though, it's worth it.

FAQ (Please read before asking for changes):

Q: This is a brand new post, how do you have frequently asked questions?

A: I don't. I'm doing that thing where I pretend to know how people are going to use something and try to limit issues. It's called QA, Jan.

Q: Can't you shave off the extra length of the attachment plane? Why is it 100mm when the pegs are only 70mm apart?

A: I tested one with just the screw mount distance plus some allowance and it felt very wobbly still. I fear that it would easily stress crack the plastic over time without the extra support.

Q: Can you make this fit X/Y/Z brand of cable?

A: Nope. I mean, I surely could, but I made this for myself and specifically for the MA cable because there are lots of options out there for replacing the end entirely or using squared off SCARTs. But nothing for the contoured case of the Reflext SCART cables. They don't have removeable leads, the screw fit base, nor the through hole options other SCARTs have, so this is a unique solution for their unique shape.

Q: Why not just transplant the cable into a custom end cap?

A: The MiSTer Addons SCART setup uses clip-fit injection molded plastic. You COULD unclip it, cut the strain relief, and rehome it into a header with mounts and a split-screw relief, but I'd be 3D printing that anyway and then risk pulling out pins, etc. This is just dead simple plug and screw and play.

Q: It's ugly.

A: That's not a question.

Q: WHY is it so ugly?

A: Praxis. It was a quick design that worked. I'm sure a quick trip to some sculpting software for the STL will allow you to round it all up and make it look nicer. But for me, this is exactly what I set out to make.

Q: Why isn't it fully enclosed?

A: There's no reason. It's screwed in, which means there's nowhere for the header to go, so it can't slip out. The strain relief is pressure fit into the cutout. You could probably pull really hard on the cable end and force it out, but a standard drop isn't going to do it. So why waste the plastic? It'd be trivial to make a cap though. I'll think about it.

Q: This sucks, it doesn't hold into place!

A: Did you put standoffs on the RetroTink 4K and screw it into them? Are they specifically M4 (4mm wide machine screw threads) 5mm (height of the post above the threads) x 6mm (diameter of the post) brass standoffs? They are dirt cheap and easy to get. The RetroTink locks us into M4 since that's the mount threading. These are the shortest M4 standoffs that are standard. The clip will slip over the posts once they are in and M4 screws should slot in on the outside with no issue. The only problem is, as mentioned before, the screw under the bend. It's difficult to manage, but there are ways.

Example from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Motherboard-Standoffs-Spacers/dp/B00YGBDGKA

Q: Why not just get a different/better cable?

A: Why does anyone do anything, Warren?

Q: Can I copy/steal/sell/take credit for this?

A: I do not care.

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike

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