Fully Parametric 90 Degree Adjustable/Sliding Bracket/Fence - PROTOTYPE

Are you a DIYer who does wood working, makes tool jigs, or wants a completely parametric "head start" to help you to make custom right-angle motor mounts?

Do you ever make projects that require a 90 degree bracket or adjustable fence/reference edge? (for example: soap cutter, wood router fence, DIY table saw fence, vice/clamping surface, etc)

Need it to be reasonably precisely dimensioned and angled? (well... within 3D printer/CNC tolerances)

Need it to be completely customizable with little knowledge of CAD? (or just little time to model multiple variants from scratch)

Willing to use a FREE Fusion account (available at the time of writing) or any CAD app that can use STEP files? (Fusion Instructions below)

Then you're not alone. So I made this, and I hope it helps you.

WHY USE THIS MODEL?

Detailed instructions, informative diagrams for the parameters, and two different file formats (Fusion/STEP), that's got to help, right?

You can make a sliding reference in a minute or two by typing in the dimensions you need, setting various parameters for multiple different models in very little time, or if tweaking to suit your situation through rapid prototyping if you need to. It's also a decent base for various bracket style projects.

WHY NOT USE THIS MODEL?

I did say that this is a prototype... so there's a small chance of problems. I'd love helpful feedback though!

Well, if you can't run a CAD app, you won't get much out of this. You can use a free account on Fusion (available to the general public at the time of writing) or any CAD app capable of using the included STEP file. However, this requires a relatively modern computer to run such apps. You can't just:

download > slice > print,

This needs to be adjusted to your needs first. So the process has another step:

download >TWEAK IN CAD > slice > print.

Naturally, you'll have to do this for each variant you design, and so there's a bit more involved.

There are thousands of parameter combinations that should work well with this model. However, there's also a lot that may break things, or make the models look odd. The order that you adjust the parameters can cause problems, so I'll discuss my findings from my initial tests below to give you the best start I can.

Haven't scared you off? Good!

HOW DO I USE THE F3D FILE?

Open the f3d file in Fusion360. While in "Design mode" Hit the FX button > user parameters... if you're not using full-screen/maximised window (or just have a low-res screen) then the FX button may well be hidden from view. In that case:

Click: solid > modify > parameters > user parameters

...and adjust/enter the values as needed. The parameter names are explained in my uploaded image.

Simply enter your (carefully measured and noted) measurements for each dimension.

NOTES ABOUT ADJUSTING THE PARAMETERS WITH THIS MODEL:

If you're trying to reduce the overall dimensions of the model.... I HIGHLY recommend reducing the diagonal strut/slotted hole sizes by shortening the following parameters first:

1. StrutBaseLength,
2. StrutHeight,
3. SlotLength
4. SlotDistanceFromMiddle
5. SlotStartDistance

THEN you can reduce the overall length/width/height of the bracket. It will cause less issues and warnings. I rounded all of the edges (except the slotted holes) with a fillet. However, if you want a much more stable model, delete the fillets from the history (in the right side of the time line at the bottom of the screen), then add fillets back in later if you wish.

If making things bigger, do the overall sizes of the bracket FIRST to make room for your changes, then adjust the parameters discussed in points 1-5 above.

PRO TIP: If you prefer a SINGLE slot in the middle of your model, then reduce the "SlotDistanceFromMiddle" to zero. Both slots will PERMANENTLY merge into one, so either save the file as a new file name, or don't save it and revert to an older version of the file if you think you'll need the second slot later on. Remember: the UNDO function is your friend!

Have a look at the newly-shaped model... once you're happy:

EXPORTING MESH FILES (STL/3MF) FROM FUSION FOR YOUR SLICER/CAM APP:

Right click on the body name (in the browser section on the left side of the Fusion window) then select export mesh > save that as an STL/3MF/whatever, and slice it up accordingly using your slicer software of choice.

Please note: If you're a user of the original AnkerMake slicer instead of the beta AnkerMake Studio which is Prusa Slicer based, then please note you should export as STL because the AnkerMake slicer app doesn't handle 3MF files. PrusaSlicer and Cura based slicer users should be fine with 3MF files.

Also, you may want to slice each part individually in your slicing software to avoid stringing and other issues that can occur when printing multiple parts at the same time.

WHAT IF I WANT TO MAKE SEVERAL DIFFERENT BRACKET TYPES?

Once you've exported your first STL/3MF file (for immediate or future slicing)... go back to your CAD app, adjust the parameters once again, and then re-export the new files (for each part) and give them a unique, hopefully identifiable file name. Remember, you'll need to slice EACH variant separately... then print whichever ones you need in whatever quantities you'd like.

IF THERE ARE ANY QUESTIONS?

The parameters should be self-explanatory, please see the included diagram...but if I get any notable feedback. I'll add some suggestions here and there.

Obviously, I've provided this file with the expectation that you (or someone you know) will be the one entering parameters, slicing, and of course, printing. However, if you find a problem with the file, or have constructive ideas for improvement, please let me know so I can fix it.

Remember that you have to keep the model within the capabilities of your printer. The dimensions, and printer capabilities will decide if your print will need supports or not. Your filament choice (like PETG for example) can increase the difficulty you may face to remove the supports if you use them.

I like to use additional shells/walls/perimeters so my prints are solid and less prone to distortion under load... but if you like a more economical balance of strength/filament use... I'd recommend a 15-30% adaptive cubic infill.

Finally, the choice of filament should consider any temperature, mechanical forces, and of course chemical exposures (I'm looking at you soap makers) since uncured soaps can leach lye as you cut the loaves with your soap cutter.

I hope you find this helpful. Just be safe, and have fun with whatever you use this design for. Likes, feedback, makes, etc would help me to continue creating/prototyping new designs, and making improvements to existing ones.

All the best!
harmo_hammer