April 9, 2025
Description
Temporarily, GIF video's are posted here until I make a YouTube Video... Hopefully, that will be soon... And, hopefully at least one or, two of the GIF's Show up...
Video's will help demo usage... (stay tuned)
Some Fixtures may be slightly different than those shown in GIF's/Video.
StopBlock/Adjustable-Screws and StopLock fixture's enable Line-Length control and Rotation locking...
Photo's show Double-Lined reticle on the Telescope (I did NOT clean them - the debris creates it's own World (lol)
This Project/Parts is tailored for a ** 23mm, 62º Aspheric SVBony Eyepiece ** and fits some similar one's. The most important aspect is the Focal-Length (Lens to Reticle). In some instances, you may be able to Shim the Reticle up/closer by using additional Glare-Shield part underneath the Reticle)
First: .STL and (duplicated) .STEP files: STEP files are always preferred as they contain finer details and can be Modified in CAD software. STL files can be modified if you know how but, it's not intuitive to most folks. Not all 3D-Print software can use STEP files, good luck!
About The Files:
Second:
The Quickest and perhaps most satisfying results will come from simply Buying a Gizmo/Reticle such as SVBony Reticle
I have one, works great but I don't like the Gizmo sticking out... to easy to grab as a Handle and it gets in the way
About This Project:
The Lines/Graphics are inscribed on Acrylic Disc's are, such as: These Gartful one's
Plenty of Disc's to get enough practice and variety of what you want on the Reticle
I designed several Fixture's and Inscribed hundreds of lines using various approaches from Razor-Blades, Pins to Sewing-Needles. Also used a Laser but, it's not a Quick method nor are the results any better than Blade and Needle...
From that, I dialed it down to Box-Cutter-Blade (for Heavy lines) and Sewing-Needle (for Fine lines).
Heavy and Fine lines can be reasonably accomplished with both but, using the Sewing-Needles enables inscribing Finer Lines.
The Disc's have Stick-On protection (0.002" thick). Using a Disc with the protection removed from both sides and setting Needle/Blade to touch the top surface, then, placing a Disc with protection on Bottom surface will Raise the disc, ensuring a deeper scribe. Sometimes I use a Paper-Disc as a Shim to further raise the Disc, as seen in a Gif example
NOTE -Photo's: Looking at the Lines through the Telescope and hand-held magnifier shows rather excellent quality can be achieved but, in No case do the photo's (taken with hand-held Cellphone) bare this out.
The camera tries to resolve the fine detail and colors and thus, keeps iterating/resolving..., especially in the dark).
Also, worth noting; Orientation with respect to the LED does matter and so does the side lines on (as Focal length is different for different Eyepieces). The Glare-Shield can be used as a Spacer to Raise the reticle, if needed...
The Final product is shown on the scope; Small Red Button is On/Off, Larger Red is Trim-Pot for adjusting Brightness
Alternate Parts can be used. Below list's my preferred parts.
The 'Gizmo' STL/STEP is laid out to accommodate them and similar.
Also included is a Gizmo part (Drill-urOwn) without any holes.
Parts List:
• LED, Red 3mm 1.8 to 2.2V, 20mA ( plenty to choose from at Amazon, be sure to match the Voltage/Current)
• Switch, XLX (Similar to These)
• Trim-Pot (5k to 10k) (Similar to These)
• LR-44 Battery Holder ( Similar to This One )
• Wire/Solder
Note's:
• 3D-Printing - FYI
• I used PLA and ORCA-Slicer
• Remove the usual Elephant-Foot (Sand or File), especially on the Slider and Base interface dovetail's. Result should have No binding.
• The Threads are Fine-Pitch so, if possible, use Nozzle having smaller than typical 0.4mm (my parts used 0.25mm). Consider using the Adaptive layer-height that some Software, such as ORCA feature.
• Infill Density, I use 100% in the Threaded Areas and 30% or more, in other areas. This, of course depends on your Software and Printer and Infill-Type.
(100% makes that area a Solid. Thus, you can get a fully Solid Part as if it were injection molded). Explore this for your various projects...)
• Some print software, such as ORCA, have 'Modifier' feature that enable setting Layer parameters and Density in desired Zones, a very cool feature.
Some included screenshots show this: The Yellow cylinder's and rectangular items are Modifiers. They show up as Purple items in the Print-Preview, as does the Adaptive-Layer-Height, as seen.
Assembly:
• Circuit-Refer to the Wiring Diagram
• Parts-Refer to the GIF, pretty simple
• Mount the Parts onto the Circuit area of the Gizmo (choose either one as desired)
• Attach/Solder Wires (I used 370º Temp for only 3-Seconds (enough to melt solder and short-enough time to not melt the plastic)
• Use adhesive to hold the parts in place (I prefer using Loctite Shoe-Glue, holds well and easy to peel/remove). Especially if wanting to glue the Cover)
• Sand the Side of the Acrylic Disc - with the Goal of making it Dull so as to Diffuse the LED's light and more evenly distribute it, so to speak...
• The Acrylic will sort-of Snap into place and you may hear it Click... ensure it's properly placed and at the Rotated Angle you want...
• Screws: Refer to the Graphic. Threads may not (probably, won't) print perfect so, chase them (i.e., Cold-Work them) by screwing in a few turns and unscrewing a few turns
Added:
Cleaning and getting parts to move smoothly/freely: After getting close to having the parts fit and move (from using a Fine file and Fine-Grit sandpaper, Rub the Sliding features with a Candle to transfer some wax. Afterwards, you should be able to move them with the slightest touch... Mine slide out and fall to the ground though they fit together with No/Minimal slop/play.
License:
Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike
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