Toyota flip key remote case

I hated my 2024 Rav4 flip key. It was bulky and it kept opening in my pocket. Here's my alternative.

*** TEAR APART YOUR EXISTING FLIP KEY AT YOUR OWN RISK***

In the trial and error of making this, I destroyed the transponder and the PCB of one of the flip keys that came with my new Rav4. Be warned.

This is a new housing and button for the overly bulky default Toyota flip key. It's for my 2024 Rav4, but it would probably work for older Toyota flip keys too. It's about 60% of the weight of the original flip key and much smaller (see the pics). In order to make it work you will have to print the front, back, and button, and then buy or scavenge the necessary parts to add in, which are the:
PCB for the remote
Key
Spring
Transponder (your car will not start without this!)
Battery

I printed mine out of ASA because I wanted it to be a bit heat resistant, and I like how ASA feels. I'm sure PLA+ or PETG would work fine. The buttons are depressed by posts on the underside of the thin remote face. This is for my car, which only had lock and unlock buttons and a panic button (which I eliminated). Your car may also have a trunk button, and/or you may want to keep the panic button, in which case you will have to tweak the design somewhat. You can probably do this in a slicer if you are careful, but I included the Fusion files as well.

Printing Instructions:

• The most important slicer setting is to get the thin top of the remote case, the part with the pegs underneath for hitting the buttons, sturdy enough. It's only .3mm thick, and you want it to be two layers, and ideally, "ironed" as well. To achieve this I made my layer height .2 and my first layer .15, and I turned on ironing for all top surfaces. See the .3MF files for how I set this up.
• The top and bottom parts of the remote look best when printed face down on a textured bed, imho.
• The button should be printed top down with supports for the little flanges. I printed this out of PLA+ for strength, and it's working fine so far. If it breaks I'll probably reprint it and anneal it in powdered salt or Delft Clay.

Post-Processing Instructions:

• Ironing all top surfaces should take care of some of the cleanup.
• You'll want to use a hobby knife to clean out the notches on the bottom piece so the PCB and the pumps in the top remote piece slides in.
• There are small dots to attach to the face of the remote so you can feel and see where the buttons are. I printed these out of a different color of ASA. I was going to weld them on with acetone, but it turned out a lot easier to stick them on with super glue