Fully Parametric Power Adaptor/Networking/KVM/Hi-Fi gear mounting bracket - PROTOTYPE

Do you (or anyone you know) wish to mount a square or rectangular shaped power adaptor, network router, network switch, WiFi access point, KVM, or even quallity-yet-affordable smaller hi-fi device, to a travel case, the under side of a desk, a wall, or in some DIY project?

Want a custom job to suit the seemlingly endless variations on those square/rectangular bricks, and allow cabling to connect to both the front and back?

Want it to hold the unit in place when connecting and disconnecting cables at both ends?

Me too, hence I made this.

WHY USE THIS MODEL?

There's a LOT of electrical devices that need access front/back for cables/button access, that quickly create a mess of cabling, and if you're looking for a convenient, space-saving solution to mount it somewhere unobtrusive, this will help.

While in-line power adaptors (like laptop power bricks), networking equipment, KVMs are a logical use case for this, audiophiles and content creators can benefit when mounting affordable, higher-grade-yet-smaller-sized audio equipment like a field recorder, equalizer, preamp, headphone amp, DAC, etc. There are many brands of small devices that can easily have a suitable bracket printed on a typical FDM build volume. Popular small audio gear brands include Tascam/SoundDevices/Schiit/SMSL's/Moon/Topping/Xduoo/Fosi/Bellari/Aiyima.. to name a few.... although there are models in these brands that need a bigger printer/staged assembly to build a bracket of suitable size.

Parametric modeling to tailor the model (which is often usable "as is") within 60 seconds flat, simply specifying the 10 parameters by typing in some numbers into your CAD application, then just do the inevitable slice and print. You can make a separate model for each and every square/rectangular equipment you need to house in a very short period of time.

If there's something that doesn't work for your particular situation, or an additional feature is needed, feel free to tweak the resulting model. (Add a hole for an indicator LED or air vent, or carve out a section to handle cables/antennae, that's a quick mod to do!).

I've also included pretty diagrams depicting what each parameter does (that's got to help right?)

I've provided both a Fusion file (which is free for hobbyist use) and a STEP file, so use whatever compatible CAD application you prefer.

WHY NOT USE THIS MODEL?

I did say that this is a prototype... sometimes parameters can work against each other, and cause "weirdness" so there's a small chance of problems. (The order you adjust the parameters can GREATLY impact your odds of success, particularly when reducing dimensions). I'd love helpful feedback though!

Well, if you can't run a CAD app, you won't get much out of this. You can use a free account on Fusion (available to the general public at the time of writing) or any CAD app capable of using the included STEP file. However, this requires a relatively modern computer to run such apps. You can't just:

download > slice > print,

This needs to be adjusted to your needs first. So the process has another step:

download >TWEAK IN CAD > slice > print.

Naturally, you'll have to do this for each bracket version you make, and so there's a bit more involved.

There are thousands of parameter combinations that should work well with this model. However, there's also a lot that may break things, or make the models look odd. I've set the parameters a modest size to avoid conflicts with the flange dimensions... reduce the flange sizes first before reducing the overall size of the bracket. Making things bigger, shouldn't be a major problem though... from my initial tests.

Naturally, device that produce a lot of heat (such as vacuum tube based amplifiers, need far more room and airflow for cooling... plastic brackets is probably a poor choice, but for everything else (Solid state amps, typical power bricks, network gear, etc), it'd be fine with just a little careful consieration.

Haven't scared you off? Good!

HOW DO I USE THE F3D FILE?

Open the f3d file in Fusion360. While in "Design mode" Hit the FX button > user parameters... if you're not using full-screen/maximised window (or just have a low-res screen) then the FX button may well be hidden from view. In that case:

Click: solid > modify > parameters > user parameters

...and adjust/enter the values as needed. The parameter names are explained in my uploaded image.

Simply enter your (carefully measured and noted) measurements for each dimension. Have a look at the newly-shaped model... once you're happy:

Then you just right click on the body name (in the browser section on the left side of the screen) then select export mesh > save that as an STL/3MF/whatever, and slice it up accordingly using your slicer software of choice. Do all of that again for the second (or later) version.... and name it something different to the previous one(s).

Please note: If you're a user of the original AnkerMake slicer instead of the beta AnkerMake Studio which is Prusa Slicer based, then please note you should export as STL because the AnkerMake slicer app doesn't handle 3MF files. PrusaSlicer and Cura based slicer users should be fine with 3MF files.

Also, you may want to slice each part individually in your slicing software to avoid stringing and other issues that can occur when printing multiple parts at the same time.

WHAT IF I WANT TO MAKE SEVERAL DIFFERENT BRACKET TYPES?

Once you've exported your first STL/3MF file (for immediate or future slicing)... go back to your CAD app, adjust the parameters once again, and then re-export the new files (for each part) and give them a unique, hopefully identifiable file name. Remember, you'll need to slice EACH variant separately... then print whichever ones you need in whatever quantities you'd like.

IF THERE ARE ANY QUESTIONS?

The parameters should be self-explanatory, please see the included diagram...but if I get any notable feedback. I'll add some suggestions here and there.

Obviously, I've provided this file with the expectation that you (or someone you know) will be the one entering parameters, slicing, and of course, printing. However, if you find a problem with the file, or have constructive ideas for improvement, please let me know so I can tweak it.

Remember that you have to keep the model within the capabilities of your printer. The dimensions, angles, and printer capabilities will decide if your print will need supports or not. Your filament choice will also impact the difficulty you may face when removing the supports.

Obviously, it may make sense to print the parts upside down for stability and improved bed adhesion, but if aesthetics are important, printing the right way up will keep external apperances more tidy. If you set "Organic/tree" supports on "build plate only" (that's Prusa Slicer/AnkerMake now EufyMake Studio parlance, the nomenclature in your slicer may be a little different), I highly recommend setting the support "branch diameter" to 8 or even 10mm... (particularly on faster "bed slinger" styled printers) to help with stability and reducing support breakage during the "shake and bake" printing process.

I like to use additional shells/walls/perimeters so my brackets are solid... but if you like a more economical balance of strength/filament use... I'd recommend a 15-30% adaptive cubic infill.

I hope you find this helpful. Just be safe, and have fun with whatever you use this design for. Likes, feedback, makes, etc would help me to continue creating/prototyping new designs, and making improvements to existing ones.

All the best!
harmo_hammer