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Creality K2 Plus - CFS Flipper 3D Printer File Image 1
Creality K2 Plus - CFS Flipper 3D Printer File Image 2
Creality K2 Plus - CFS Flipper 3D Printer File Image 3
Creality K2 Plus - CFS Flipper 3D Printer File Image 4
Creality K2 Plus - CFS Flipper 3D Printer File Image 5
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Creality K2 Plus - CFS Flipper 3D Printer File Image 8
Creality K2 Plus - CFS Flipper 3D Printer File Image 9
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Creality K2 Plus - CFS Flipper

Punk4lifeimort avatarPunk4lifeimort

May 21, 2025

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Description

This is inspired by the AMS2 Flipper created for the Bambu Labs AMS2 system by Jakob_K_Design. Original design here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1363398-ams-flipper-better-access-to-your-p1s-x1c#profileId-1408595

I modified their design so it would fit the creality CFS and bolt to our K2 Plus printers using four of the rear panel threaded holes and an alignment peg. This has gone through several iterations, but in its current form both versions can be printed in PETG and be plenty stiff. The taller version that accommodates a 56mm riser has more flex in PETG, so I ended up using PPA-CF, but unless you are operating your printer in a windy area, the PETG is likely fine.

My main reason for wanting to be able to tilt the CFS up and out of the way was so that I could print TPU from a top mounted spool without having issues (or atleast, having less issues). Its also really nice to be able to tilt up the CFS when changing nozzles or making other adjustments or repairs to the print head.

The printer side of the hinge are attached using two 3mm screws and a peg that helps align and give rigidity to the assembly. The top four corners of the K2 Plus have these little rubber plugs covering a deeply countersunk hole for the hardware that holds the machine together. This hinge design requires that you gently pull the two rear rubber plugs out so that the bracket can fit its round peg into that recess.

All the hardware is 3mm. I used the hardware that held the z axis down during shipping for the hinge hardware (axis inserts) which are 35mm in length. I also used some 20mm long screws to attach the printer side of the hinge. I used 15mm length screws to attach the CFS side of the hinge. The CFS side of the hinge also uses two locating pins that go into screw recesses in the base of the CFS unit. They have small ridges that are designed to help it be a tight fit but without being so tight that it can't be removed.

Hopefully you will find this useful, I have only tested this on my own printer, so there could very well be some adjustments or tweaks that need to be made. As all things like this, you are responsible for any damage to your printer, I'm just a dude on the internet who said this worked for him. Let me know if you would like to see other changes made, if I can make them I will, alternatively I could just post the step files if that would be helpful. Thanks

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial

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