# Sound Addicted Subble 1.8" Printer Legs Bracket Set (FL_RR + FR_RL)
These brackets are designed for the [Sound Addicted Subble 1.8" isolation feet (35 shore hardness)](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095JTDVZH?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1) to be installed on printer frames such as the Tevo Tornado or Creality CR-10, where the base is a 2040 Y extrusion butting into a lapped 2020 cross extrusion.
This set was printed in PA6-CF20 and annealed for final strength. Other strong filaments can be used, but the stiffer the better.
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## ⚠️ CRITICAL — READ THIS BEFORE DOWNLOADING
### **There Are TWO Different Brackets. You MUST Print 2 of Each.**
These Subble leg mounts are **diagonally mirrored**, not four identical corners.
Each printer corner has a different bolt-access angle due to the **2040 → 2020 lap joint** on machines like the Tornado and CR-10. That joint forces the bracket geometry to mirror across the frame.
**If you print four of the same STL, two corners will not fit your frame.**
## 🚨 Required Print Breakdown
- **Print 2× `FL_RR.stl`**
*(Front-Left **and** Rear-Right)*
- **Print 2× `FR_RL.stl`**
*(Front-Right **and** Rear-Left)*
Open both files in your slicer — you’ll immediately see the mounting pattern is mirrored.
## 🔍 How to Identify Which Side Goes Where
Each bracket has **two pairs of bolt holes**:
- **The wider-spaced pair** → screws into the **2020** cross extrusion
- **The tighter-spaced pair** → screws into the **2040** Y extrusion
And each bracket has two visually obvious edges:
- **One perfectly square 90º outer edge** → this goes on the **outside edge of the printer frame**
- **One chamfered / angled inner edge** → this faces **inward**, toward the center of the machine
These two features (bolt spacing + edge geometry) make orientation foolproof.
**If you’re unsure:** the bracket should always “hug” the corner of the frame — the 90º edge aligns flush to the printer’s outer perimeter.
## 🧭 Why they’re mirrored
Because the 2040 meets the 2020 at a stepped lap joint, the bolt heads and wrench access change sides depending on the corner. That means each diagonal pair needs its own relief angle and bolt pattern to keep installation clean.
This isn’t aesthetic — it’s a **mechanical necessity** for proper fitment.
## **TL;DR**
**Print 4 legs total.
2 of `FL_RR`.
2 of `FR_RL`.
Match bolt spacing + outside 90º edge for orientation.
Do *not* print 4 of the same STL.**
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# With that housekeeping out of the way...
## Design Strong Points
- Noticeable reduction in vibration and structural hum
- Rigid spire design keeps load transfer straight down into the Subble pad
- Internal honeycomb geometry increases surface area which:
- May help vibration damping and adds strength without the cost of high infill (click on an STL and preview it in 3D on Thingiverse; you’ll see the interior is hollow with bottom-to-top aligned honeycomb ribs)
- Often improves bed adhesion and reduces warping, especially when printing engineered composite materials
- Provides a significantly stronger part under dynamic force
- Minimal slicer infill required (just 6 layers on the top and small design radii in the print) because the model has its own composite-style honeycomb shell
- Small footprint that still supports heavy printers (up to 45lb, the Subble being the limiting factor with good composite filaments)
- Install angle allows the long end of a hex key to reach the bolts (light rubbing), while the short end is completely unobstructed
- Matte composite-style exterior when printed at 0.15 mm layers
## Recommended Materials
**Best:** PA6-CF, PA12-CF, or any nylon CF blend
**Good:** ABS, ASA, PC blends
**Okay in a pinch:** PETG or PLA+
Stronger and harder is better. Softer filaments reduce rigidity and lifespan. If your machine can run CF nylon, that is ideal.
## Print Settings
- Layer height: 0.15 mm
- Walls: 5 or 6
- Top and bottom layers: 4–7 (not critical since the part is mostly walls)
- Brim: Recommended for warping filaments or printers without a chamber
- Infill: 60-100%. The required infill is very minimal, just 6 layers on the top and small design radii in the print. Aim for 100% if warping isn't a concern.
- Print orientation is already correct.
- Environmental consistency matters if you print these in multiple batches.
- These were printed in a ~30–35°C enclosure (insulated, no drafts).
## Z Height Consistency Note
If you do not print all four legs in one job, keep everything identical between pairs. Same z offset, same chamber temperature, same bed mesh, and ideally the same print positions. These legs need to match height. If they match, the printer will sit perfectly level.
Mine came in within roughly +/- 0.05 mm between each mirrored pair despite a bad z steps/mm that compressed the overall height by about 1.3 mm. I printed them in pairs and purposely didn’t fix the z-offset until all four were complete, because correcting it mid-way would have made my second pair taller and caused a tippy frame. Be diligent: these can take 9+ hours each to print at 45 mm/s.
## Included Files
- FL_RR.stl (Front-Left_Rear-Right)
- FR_RL.stl (Front-Right_Rear-Left)
- pair.3mf (contains both arranged for dual printing; copy individually if needed)
- .step (for verifying measurements or modifying)
Print two of each bracket. They are mirrored diagonally in use.
## Hardware Needed
- 16x M5x10 mm socket head cap screws
- 16x M5 drop-in V-slot compatible nuts
- [4x Subble 1.8" feet](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095JTDVZH)
- Optional: 5 mm drill bit (The bolt holes are spec'd with a 0.5 mm tolerance. If your horizontal extrusion multiplier isn’t perfectly tuned, dialing it in can be a fleeting chase. If you oversize in the slicer, you can never un-oversize it later. Reaming always wins.)
## Installation Notes
- The Subble pads should fit easily and somewhat snugly into the socket. Treat it like installing a screen protector on your phone, square it by touch, quick visual check, press and firmly apply for 30 seconds. Heating the Subbles slightly makes installation more effective.
- The spire geometry transfers load straight downward and avoids weird angles or deflection.
- Bolt access is easy from above with a hex key.
## Final Thoughts
If you want quieter prints, smoother motion, and a more stable machine, these legs get it done. If you run very high accelerations, note that the Subbles at 35 shore hardness do have a little give. You can feel it if you rock the printer by hand, but under normal Cartesian printing loads there is nothing to worry about unless you're regularly hitting uncommonly hard accelerations for a cartesian printer. My Klipper max accel is 1k mm/s.
cooperlarson
