January 11, 2026
Description
I don't know of anyone will find these useful , if you happen to be doing a raleight twenty/stowaway conversion AND have the same controller as me ??
I made some covers to replace the stock pressed steel ones , Including:-
Space to tuck unused wires away inside ( I recommend opening the controller and de-soldering and/or cutting any wires you defiantly wont ever use , as space is tight inside)
M6 Nuts for mounting
Hole for power button
Rear exit XT60 port (note requires opening and re-wiring the controller)
Large hole for wire exit to fit grommet for waterproofing .
I've included the file without the XT60 socket is anyone wants to avoid re-wiring their controller and its pretty simple for me to generate a file without it
Instructions :
Print and remove supports etc Insert and glue the nuts into the prints
Remove the 8 screws holding the two original covers on
Remove the front one (where the wires come out) from the silicone seal , KEEP THE SEAL IN PLACE , this seals against the controller body/cover AND acts as a secondary seal where the wires pass through
Finalise whatever wiring changes you want/need (including relocating the main power to a rear XT60 socket if wanted) and pass wires through large hole and grommet.
Fit front using original screws (you may need to open the holes out SLIGHTLY
Fit XT60 socket to rear cover
Cut new foam to seal rear of controller
Fit rear cover using original screws
Attach to bike
I'm hoping there will also be room for a Arduino Nano as well as that's what I'm using to control the PAS .
Space is becoming an increasingly premium commodity down in the BB area !!!
Update 12/02/2026
I've been plodding away at this conversion and decided to use a Kunteng controller so I've uploaded covers for this , Its slightly smaller then its cheapo counterparts and its features are well worth the money ! fully customisable and the way it delivers power is far superior. Quicker, smoother and more predictable, These fit the 17Amp version. I've ditched the rear mount xt60 for now since I didn't want to risk breaking a more expensive controller opening it and soldering onto the board.
Everything else is the same although I think I made the hole for the button smaller and pronounced , I'm using it for lights so I need it to be easy to find in the dark with a gloved hand.
License:
Creative Commons - Attribution - Share Alike