MPMD SKR v1.3 conversion

Note
I did manage to get the printer together and working with the new parts and the SKR v1.3 and it is working way better than before.
However, I got sidetracked with several other projects and was not able to get all my information to post this on Thingiverse. I have tried to ensure that the stls I have uploaded are all the latest versions but I expect I have missed a few parts or may have an older version of a part here. If you try this and notice any parts not quite fitting or any parts missing leave a comment and I will do my best to remedy the problems. I will also try and post a few images of the finished printer since the ones I have posted now are the project as it was taking form and not the finished job.
Keep in mind that many parts on my printer are no longer original. These include the effector, the extruder, the power supply, build plate (glass on the original), the carriages and bearings, the belts, the end stops, the board, the bed clips, added column lighting and junk shields.

Summary
The USB connector on my MPMD broke off so I was no longer able to use OctoPrint to control my printer. For a while I just used the SD card but that was not as effective as using OctoPrint. I was going to see if I could repair or get a replacement board for the MPMD but decided it was too expensive. I checked through my old boards and found I had an old SKR v1.3 that I had never installed so I decided to replace the existing MPMD board with it.

I originally designed the setup to fit under the printer utilizing the raised base parts that I had already made. I removed the existing controllers and screen from the printer and altered the existing connectors to fit the new SKR board. Most was pretty simple, just replacing the wrong sized connectors with ones that fit the board and wiring the bed switches in parallel to act as a single switch for the SKR board. I struggled with the optical End Stops and finally realized that they were not compatible with the new board (wrong voltage) so I opted to attempt using sensorless homing instead. This was more difficult than expected and I found that the Igus bushings caused too much binding and I was unable to obtain accurate enough results. Instead I chose to replace the optical end stops with simple mechanical switches. I found some on line:
5Pcs Original EndStop Limit Switch Kit Compatible with Creality Ender 3 V2 Ender3 Pro 3S Ender-3 Max / 3X, CR-10 V3 S4, Ender3 S1 Pro 3D Printer that were under $20.
In order to install the new switches I had to design a mounting bracket to fit them to the towers and redesign the belt clip for triggering the new end stops. The new belt clips attach to my IGUS bushing carriages as replacements to my existing ones. Those clips and carriages were designed to handle the larger stock belts (not the smaller MPMD custom loop belts.
Due to the new screen, I was also forced to place it so that it protruded out from the front of the printer in order to allow access to the two connectors on the screen component. The base I had was large enough to accommodate the new board and the screen (protruding) but I only had room left for my older (and smaller) 10A PS. I got all the parts assembled, compiled a custom version of Marlin for the new board and test ran the printer. I couldn't believe that the printer was working and was almost totally silent. All I could hear was the fan I had installed to keep the board and the TMC2209 drivers cool. I ran some tests but began to run into issues. The printer would disconnect and shut itself down after a short period of printing.
Running a bunch of tests and watching the OctoPrint graphs it appeared that the issue was related to my power. I realized that with the new board I was pushing my PS beyond its capabilities. To test I swapped my 10A PS with my other 16A PS and the printer ran flawlessly.
Now I had a new problem since there was not enough room for my new PS and the board to fit under the printer with raising it even height. Instead I chose to place the PS under the printer and mount the SKR on the back column. For this I would have to redesign most of my base. I retained the front leg extensions which contained my main power switch and the switches that controlled my LED lighting and redesigned the rear leg and mount.
The new parts consist of the SKR mount with a clip that allows it to clip to the rear tower. A new base that fastens to the bottom of the back tower and holds the 16A PS in place at the back. This allows you to install the PS and the wiring with the printer upside down. In order to hold the PS from falling out when you flip it over you need to fasten in the front and back bases.With the SKR attached to the mount, and it connected to the back tower and the back base in place you can feed the wires through the rear opening and wire up the board. I used a 12v squirrel cage fan for cooling the SKR Board
GDSTIME 75mm x 75mm x 30mm 12V DC Brushless Blower Cooling Fan
With those parts in place you can slide the rear cover in place and fasten it to the other parts. This ties all 3 parts together into a single unit.

With the back SKR unit in place the existing Spool holder is not large enough to allow a spool to fit so I added an extension which includes a couple of bearings and a filament guide with a direction changing spool. I just used a piece I had lying around but any small bearing or a 3D printed parts will work.