Coin Pusher Royal

“Coin Pusher Royal” Description – Two Build Options

Boost MeI would truly appreciate a boost – it means a lot to me and keeps me motivated to keep creating such complex and detailed projects for the community.

If anyone is interested in the Coin Pusher Royal but doesn’t have a large enough printer – 

I’d be happy to print it for you and send it via DHL.
Of course, just for a small compensation to cover material and electricity costs.

I’m only offering this because several people mentioned they only have an A1 mini but would still love to have the model.

So if that’s you – feel free to reach out! 😊

 

 

🔧 Version 1 (V1 – with full lighting & movement)

This is the version I built myself. You place your smartphone in the top holder, and once it’s in place, the lights turn on automatically:

• The ceiling light stays on continuously
• The small side LEDs gently “breathe”

Important: You need Kit K012 and must set it to Level 4 for the light effects to work.

 

This version is ideal for advanced makers, as it requires a bit of soldering. The lower motor runs via a separate TT motor (LA001).

 

Required parts for V1:

• Kit K012
• TT Motor LA001
• Light Plate KC009
• Some glue, tools, a soldering iron, and a few wires
• Acrylic sheets from Amazon, included below with the materials.

 

 

 

🔌 Version 2 (V2 – simple version, no soldering)

This version is great if you don’t want to solder or don’t have Kit K012.
You simply connect the KC009 light plate with a plug (e.g. USB), and get a nice top-down light so the interior isn’t too dark. The coin pusher still works using the TT motor LA001.

 

 Required parts for V2:

• Light Plate KC009
• TT Motor LA001

• A few screws (normally included in Kit K012) 

  8x M2x6mm-AA071

• Acrylic sheets from Amazon, included below with the materials.

 

 

📲 How it works

Boost MeI would truly appreciate a boost – it means a lot to me and keeps me motivated to keep creating such complex and detailed projects for the community.

Place your phone into the holder and run the motor via USB. Then throw 1 cent coins through the two top slots.

➡️ Important: Only works with 1 cent coins – please insert one at a time, or they might get stuck.

 

I’ll provide full assembly instructions below.

Hope you have fun building and playing with it – this project really took a lot of work: around 4 kg of filament, endless test prints, and a lot of trial & error 😄

The coins that fall into the container can be pushed out by slightly tilting the box backward to the left or right.

 

 

 

Here is the assembly guide based on Version 1.
For Version 2, you just need to install the light plate and the motor – the rest is pretty self-explanatory.

 

 

 

Step 1:

Attach the sensor to the spool using a piece of tape (e.g. Tesafilm). Make sure it’s securely fixed and positioned correctly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 2:

Glue the coil with the attached sensor into the designated recess.
It works best if the coil wires point to the right.
You can also use a small piece of tape to secure the wires to the holder, so they don’t move or get pinched.

• Mount the PCB using 4x M2x5 screws.
• Mount the coil using 4x M2x6 screws.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 3:

Now cut the motor wire in the middle – this way, you’ll be able to reuse the motor later if needed.

Then cut the wire of the LED plate, but very close to the connector, so you keep as much cable length as possible for soldering and proper placement.

In the end, we’ll connect the small connector from the board to the larger one from the LED plate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 4:

When soldering, make sure all connections are properly and cleanly made to ensure a strong electrical connection.

I highly recommend using heat shrink tubing to avoid any short circuits.
If you don’t have any, electrical tape or any sticky tape will also work.
Tesafilm might work in a pinch, but make sure it doesn’t come loose over time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 5:

Now plug the wires into the light plate and the board.
Make sure everything is firmly connected, and feel free to test it right away:

You can flip the lid over, place your phone into the slot, and check if the light turns on.

Just note:
The light will not be as bright when powered through the board as it is when connected via USB using the included cable – that’s because the board doesn’t provide high voltage.
But don’t worry – it doesn’t need to be super bright inside the case anyway.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 6:

For the lid cover, carefully remove the support structures using a screwdriver.
Make sure to completely remove all leftover pieces,
otherwise the LED plate won’t fit properly into its designated spot later on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 7:

When inserting the LED plate, be careful not to damage anything.

There’s a small raised area in the middle of the lid that ensures the LED plate stays in place during transport and use.

To insert the plate properly, you need to gently bend the lid outward at that point – right where my thumb is shown in the picture.
This will allow you to carefully slide the LED plate into the slot without forcing it or damaging the part.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 8:

Now it’s time to work on the side LEDs.
Unfortunately, the wires need to be extended here as well.

To do this, take the two extension cables and cut them in the middle,
so you can later solder them between the LED wires for proper length.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 9:

Now prepare four wires, each about 20 cm long.

You’ll use these to create the extensions for the LED connections.
I highly recommend using heat shrink tubing here as well,
to ensure the solder joints are properly insulated and everything looks clean and professional – and stays secure over time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 10: 

Later in the build, I found that a different arrangement of the LEDs with the extension wires worked much better.

Here’s a breakdown of the optimal setup:

• You have two small LED splitter boards.
• On each board, connect one short-wire LED to each outer port.
• Then, connect two more short-wire LEDs to the middle ports.
• That leaves two ports on each side still free:
  • On one of these ports, connect the extension wire going to the main board.
  • On the other, connect one LED with a long wire.

 

 

 

 

Step 11:

Now glue the two small LED boards in place as shown in the picture with the base plate.
⚠️ Make sure you’re attaching them to the correct side, so everything fits properly later on.

Now route the small LEDs through the designated holes like this:

• The top LEDs go through the top hole.
• The bottom LED goes through the bottom hole.
• The middle LEDs go to the left and right sides.
• The two long-wire LEDs (one from each board) go straight through the center hole.

💡 Tip: Secure the long wires after Step 12, just like I did –
this way, they’ll be cleanly routed.

 

 

 

Step 12:

Now it’s time to glue each LED onto the small plastic mounting bump.

Each LED has a small hole – carefully place it over the plastic nub.
Then hold the LED in place using pliers or a knife
and apply a generous drop of glue to secure it.

🔁 Repeat this process for all 10 LEDs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 13:

Finally, connect the LED splitter boards to the main board.

Then test again to see if all LEDs are working.
If all 10 LEDs are gently breathing in Mode 4,
you’ve done everything correctly – well done! 🎉

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 14:

Before you screw the cover onto the lid permanently,
make sure that all support material residues are completely removed.

As shown in the picture, there might still be some small remnants near the screw holes –
these must be fully cleaned off so that the cover fits perfectly into the lid without any tension.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 15:

Now screw in all 6 screws (M2x6 mm) through the cover and into the lid.

Then glue the small knob in place, just like shown in the picture –
this gives you easy access later in case something needs adjustment.

Finally, make sure that none of the LED wires are bent, pinched, or stuck –
especially not the cable from the main LED plate.
Everything should be properly routed and free, to avoid damage or malfunctions.

 

 

 

 

 

Step 16:

At the bottom of the base, attach the motor using 2x M2x6 mm screws.
Then guide the motor cable through the rear slot to the outside.

Make sure the motor is securely fastened,
so it won’t shift or come loose during operation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 17:

Cutting the acrylic sheets – handle with care!
Now it's time to cut the acrylic sheets.

⚠️ Please be extra careful to avoid injuries.
I personally used a spirit level as a cutting guide, so my fingers stayed far from the blade.
If you’re unsure: Better get some help – safety first!

You’ll usually need to score the sheet several times with a cutter
to ensure a clean cut all the way through.
‼️ Do NOT snap it by force!
That can cause small pieces to fly off, and the edges will look rough and uneven.

 

 

 

 

 

Step 18:

For the left and right acrylic panels, I’ve made a special cutting template for you.
Just print it out and trace the outline onto the acrylic using a pen or, like I did, a permanent marker.

💡 Tip:
Keep the protective film on the acrylic sheet until you’re done cutting.
That makes the process much easier and prevents the surface from getting scratched, dirty, or accidentally marked.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 19:

Start by placing one of the large corners of your acrylic sheet directly into a corner of the panel –
this way, you save yourself an extra cut.

Now take your marker and trace the remaining edges of the cutting template from the inside.
⚠️ Important: Make sure to trace only the inner edge so the shape fits perfectly later.

Then place the template on the opposite side –
just like shown in Step 20 in the picture –
and trace the outline again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 20:

This is what the marking should look like when everything is properly traced.

⚠️ Note: Try not to touch the marker lines with your fingers,
as the ink doesn’t stick well to the protective film and may smudge easily.

You can now cut the shape directly,
or – like I did –
follow the next few steps to see a much easier method I used
to cleanly cut the panels without much effort.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 21:

Start by making one complete cut through the center of the marked area.

As mentioned earlier:
Use a sharp knife and score the sheet several times,
until you feel that the acrylic has been fully cut through.

💡 In my case, I could clearly feel when the blade had gone through –
only the protective film remained on the underside,
as you’ll see in Step 22.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 22:

If – like in my case – you notice that only the protective film remains,
then flip the sheet over and continue with Step 23.

✅ But if the piece is already completely cut through,
you can skip Step 23 and go straight to Step 25.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 23:

Now cut the protective film on the backside of the acrylic sheet.

💡 Tip:
Gently bend the sheet along the cut, just like shown in the picture –
this helps you see exactly where to cut, and makes the process much easier.

⚠️ Please watch your hands!
The material edges can be sharp – so work carefully and with full attention.

 

 

 

 

 

Step 24:

This is how it should look now – your acrylic sheet should be cleanly split.

Next, you just need to cut along the marked lines
to get the final shape.

✅ Let’s continue with Step 25!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 25:

Now cut along the marked outline,
but slightly next to the line, not directly on it.

💡 No worries – there’s enough tolerance later on,
so it doesn’t have to be 100% precise.

If you manage to cut all the way through in one go – perfect!
If not, just flip the sheet over and cut the film again as described in Step 23,
or go straight to Step 26 if the protective film is still intact –
that might make the next step even easier.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 26:

You can use the remaining attached part of the acrylic
to help peel off the protective film from the broken piece –
a neat little trick that makes things much easier.

Now simply repeat the cutting process for the second acrylic panel,
just like before.

🔁 See you again in Step 27!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Does yours look as good as mine yet?
If yes – awesome, let’s keep going! 🙌
If not – no worries! You’ve got a few extra acrylic sheets,
so: take your time, take a deep breath – and give it another go 😉

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 27:

Now cut one acrylic sheet to a length of 230 mm.

💡 Quick personal tip:
I had already removed the protective film at this stage –
and I ended up regretting it, because I accidentally made a few small scratches.

🎓 Lesson learned:
Keep the film on until the very end –
it protects your sheet from scratches, marks, and fingerprints.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 28:

Now cut the next panel to exactly 198 mm in length.

🎯 Yes, I know – 200 mm would’ve been a much nicer number,
but this size is intentional,
because the 1 cent coin needs the perfect gap underneath –
it’s all about the starting height of the plate.

Sometimes it’s function over symmetry 😉

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step 29:

Finally, attach the 4 feet underneath the Coin Royal
and insert all the prepared components.

⚠️ Be sure to check that the wires are properly routed –
nothing should be pinched or blocked to ensure smooth operation.

🪙 The small acrylic panel goes in front of the coin wall,
the longer panel in the front acts as a shield,
so that no one can just grab the coins,
and everything stays in a closed and secure space.

💡 Before inserting the large panels:
The small side acrylic pieces are glued from the inside –
there are special cutouts designed for them,
so they fit in perfectly.
I used a small drop of superglue on each corner –
it holds well and looks clean.

 

 

Step 30 final:

At the coin wall, you’ll find small round holes.
As shown in the picture, I inserted red circles there.
They are not glued, just pressed in.

🎨 You can use any color you like,
but I recommend bright colors,
since there’s a LED behind each circle,
and darker colors won’t let the light shine through as well.

🔧 The front acrylic panel may be a bit tricky to insert into the lid.
Use your hand (as shown in the picture)
and gently press the panel toward you near the top,
until it snaps nicely into place without too much force.

✅ And that’s it – you’re done!
Enjoy your Coin Royal,
and big respect for making it through all the steps! 😄👏

 

 

 

 

💡 Small Note:
During operation, I noticed occasional squeaking noises,
and sometimes the slider would briefly get stuck.

To fix this, I used a bit of the grease typically used for 3D printers
and applied it lightly to both sides of the slider, and a bit underneath, and at the bottom of the circle above the motor where the piece then runs over
Since then, everything has been running much smoother and quieter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once powered on, you’ll see how the rear LEDs gently “breathe”,
while the top light beautifully illuminates the entire interior.
A real eye-catcher – especially in the dark! 😍

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Boost MeThank you