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Starlink Actuated Kit V2 Cable preserver Sleeve  3D Printer File Image 1
Starlink Actuated Kit V2 Cable preserver Sleeve  3D Printer File Image 2
Starlink Actuated Kit V2 Cable preserver Sleeve  3D Printer File Image 3
Starlink Actuated Kit V2 Cable preserver Sleeve  3D Printer File Image 4
Starlink Actuated Kit V2 Cable preserver Sleeve  3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Starlink Actuated Kit V2 Cable preserver Sleeve  3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Starlink Actuated Kit V2 Cable preserver Sleeve  3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Starlink Actuated Kit V2 Cable preserver Sleeve  3D Printer File Thumbnail 4

Starlink Actuated Kit V2 Cable preserver Sleeve

JosephLecomte avatarJosephLecomte

August 14, 2025

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Description

This model is a sleeve for the Starlink standard actuated kit V2. These models seem to be going through cables, especially in high wind conditions, because of the wobbling. The connector seems to get damaged from side to side movement of the dish moving independently from the cable, which this sleeve is meant to prevent by getting the cable to always move with the mast. This should help prevent the connector from wobbling too much and increase the lifespan of the cable. This is still being tested, but I see a clear improvement in the connector's stability and the cable pusher ball really seems to be keeping the cable all the way inserted at all times. This idea Stemmed from the fact that my first cable lasted only 2 months, probably because of high winds,,, Then stabilising my dish and mast with tape seemed to have helped my second cable last a whole 3 years instead. I then wanted to draw a more stable, repeatable and esthetic solution to the problem.

 

When installing, you will have to bring the cable through the mount's hole. Then pass it through the sleeve, and plug it into the Dish. Once plugged in, align the sleeve as best as possible with the cable and push the sleeve as high as you can. Check that the connector is aligned and all the way up, by looking in the moon shaped hole. Then align the mast with the mount's hole and push it down hard, being careful not to pinch the cable. You might have to push hard because tolerances are tight. (These tighter tolerances are only between the mast and the mount, so you are not banging on the cable itself.)

 

I ended up printing in PETG, because I had better layer adhesion than ASA, but ASA could be good also. (3MF File is for PETG)

 

License:

Standard Digital File License

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