Poppy Playtime - Grab Pack

A fun and quick way to dispatch your (least) favorite playtime critters and/or Playtime Co. nightmares!

Please allow me to get a few declaimers out there now:

1. The trigger does not pull
2. The hand does not launch/ is not power actuated.
3. The hand does not articulate.
4. Do not hit people in the face while reenacting Wack-a-Wuggy (or at all really).
5. This requires assembly and, while not difficult, may require some tools or a bit of muscle at times.
6. This was designed to print in PLA, and some walls are very thick to account for material and the fact that it will be handled as a toy.

Tools you will need:

1. Super Glue (or any other glue you prefer. It needs to bond strong)
2. Pliers - This is to remove support material
3. Hammer - While perhaps optional, a light mallet or hammer will help some parts of this assembly. 
4. Xacto knife - This is to potentially shave off any support parts that may get in the way of the grooves in the main tube of the body. 

Notes about this build:

I have taken about a year to print and play with these. I have printed many hands and small tube replacements and tweaked some items along the way. You will likely have some filament and time shock when viewing this originally. Please understand that if you choose to print this for a child to play with, you will very likely need to keep the settings or even increase some strength parameters based on who you are giving it to. 

I will explain my thoughts AFTER the assembly instructions below when it comes to the specific parts that I think are most vital, and why I chose to print them the way that they are set. Please use this to make your own determinations if you decide to alter any of my default settings. 

**The full-color build you see pictured is from an AMS print that I did NOT assemble, it was fully printed as one object(except for the Trigger Guard and Rim). This wasted so much material that I decided to split the parts ups. The black grab pack you see was my most recent print that I wanted to be sure all parts printed and fit correctly. I just happen to run out of yellow and didn't feel like ordering more. 

IMPORTANT NOTES

If you are only printing one grab pack, you will need to remove objects from the default plates, according to what you are printing. 

The grab pack hands were designed in a way that one hand was mirrored from the other. You will need to print the correct small tube to match the hand you are intending to attach it to. This is due to the design process and the fact that it was threaded and THEN mirrored. The threads are revered from each hand to the other!

I will reference the parts in the assembly instructions as I have them labeled within the sliced model. Please refer back to the model if you are not sure which part I am speaking of. 

After you have printed all parts in your preferred color and removed all support material from the print, instructions are as follows:

Assembly Guide Included with this - it is pictures only. 

1. Place the Handle into the Body. The clipped portion of the diamond shape should point towards the rear of the body (towards the larger hole). I recommend applying glue along the diamond shape piece before inserting. It will be snug fit, but any excess glue that comes out should only do so around the part that is hidden from the handle to the body surface. Meaning the excess should help attach the Handle to the Body. 
2. Place the Trigger onto the bar of the Handle. The back of the Trigger has a slot made to slide onto the face of the Handle, over the bar. The larger end of the Trigger should be towards the bottom of the Handle. I recommend applying glue in the recess on the back of the trigger. The fit is a little loose here and it will likely fall off otherwise. 
3. Place the Trigger Guard into the slots on the face of the Handle and the Body. The longer side of the Trigger Guard should be placed into the Handle - this means that the part of the Trigger Guard that was face down on the plate (assuming you did not reorient it) slots into the Handle. I recommend glueing in both ends of the trigger guard. The Trigger Guard was intentionally scaled at 95% to make an easier fit here.
4. Place the Rim on the exit end of the Body tube. I recommend gluing the Rim to the Body. The fit is loose and it will not stay otherwise. 

5. Place the Small Tube (- either hand) into the Medium Tube. You will immediately notice that the Small Tube will not slide fully into the Medium Tube, this is on purpose! The Small Tube was designed with relief cuts into the threads for this very moment. Align the relief cuts of the threads with the rails within the Medium Tube. This is where a hammer comes in handy. Gently tap on the edge of the Small Tube, tapping in a circle around the rim as to not wedge it into one side. Even with standard PLA it should not break. Please be careful to not smash fingers, and note that once the Small Tube collar gives way past the Medium Tube, it will launch out the back side (given you are hitting it with a hammer), watch your toes!

    

   Please note that the end of the Small Tube - depending on which hand you printed - is affixed with an “L” or a backwards L.  This will tell you if it is Left or Right handed at a glance. So there is no confusion, L = Left Hand. “Backwards L” = Right Hand. These are read as you are looking at them. 

    

6. Place the newly assemble Small and Medium tube into the Large Tube. This should slight right in. 
7. Place the Tube Block over the back of the Large Tube. It is easier if you place one end on and use your hammer to gently tap it into place. It is a tight fit. The Tube Block should sit below flush with the bottom of the Large Tube, this is to allow room for a glue-seal.. The purpose of this piece (while admittedly an afterthought) is to keep the Medium Tube from sliding down past the Large Tube when the hand is fully extended. Without this, if you collapse the hand down and the Medium Tube gives way first, you will get the tubes stuck on each other. It is easy to fix but very annoying to fix all the time! I recommend gluing a seal around the edge of the Tube Block, where it meets the Large Tube. While it is snug, repeated force from aggressively collapsing the hand will eventually break it free. 
8. Slide the 3-part Tube Assembly into the chamber of the Body. Please take note that there is a correct orientation of the Tube Assembly. The aforementioned L or backwards L should be upright in orientation to the usage of the grab pack. With the handle down and staring into the “barrel” of the grab pack, the letter should appear as you would read it. If it is incorrect, simply back the Tube Assembly out of the Body and rotate the entire assembly, the slide it back into place. The grooves should not allow it to rotate. You may need to use a knife to shave off any support material that is blocking the grooves. This will cause issues with the Large Tube extending out of the Body. 
9. Screw the Breech onto the back of the Body. I DO NOT RECOMMEND GLUING THIS SHUT. This should not fall out with regular play and keeps the grab pack serviceable for the future. 

10. Screw the Hand onto the Small Tube. Again, the left Hand will only fit on Small Tubes that read “L”. The right Hand will only fit on Small Tubes that read with a backwards L. The threads are reversed between the two. 

    Left Hand = Righty Tighty. 

    Right Hand = Lefty Tighty.

     

    Please note that the first time you thread the Hand onto the Small Tube, it will be very difficult. If you are not able to fully thread the hand onto the grab pack, please rotate it as far as you are able, and then you can unscrew the Breech and rotate the Tube Assembly until the hand is upright, then slide the Large Tube back into the closest groove from there. This may require further, minor, adjustments. 

     

11. Give a High Five to the closest participant with your new grab pack!

Design Consideration Notes:

I originally had designed the Small Tube with a hollow core all the way to the end. This broke off many times AND GOT THE THREADS STUCK INTO THE HANDS. This is a miserable experience and required a heat gun, snips and pliers to remove the broken thread from the hands. This is why the Small Tube is solid at the end. While I cannot guarantee that this will not happen to you, it should hold decently. Just please do not apply too much force to the fingertips of the hand. This causes a lever affect and amplifies the force to the threaded connection at the hand. Which may cause it to snap. 

The Hands themselves I originally had only 2 walls. I increased it to 4 walls after the pinky and ring finger snapped off. This was done by squeezing the fingers together till they touched. 

The Breech has threads on the exterior side of the grab pack. These threads were sized in a way that SHOULD fit 2" corrugated tubing. 2" corrugated tubing is very expensive, so I do not anticipate anyone to have these to try. I have not tried it myself. This was done in case IU decided to go all out and connect the grab pack to another system and have a complete backpack as well. 

The Tube Block is 100% an afterthought. It exists to keep it functioning without the tubes getting stuck too much. There may be a better way for this, but I didn't have the heart to start my design over. 

The 3 Tube parts (Small, Medium and Large) take so long to print due to the layer heights. This is intentional! The layer height set so low gives a smoother finish. This way the tubes, when fully extended, do not “lock” into the layers as tightly. This makes it easier to release the tubes and collapse the assembly back down. This also cuts down considerably on the “zzzhht” noise that FDM objects make when they slide past each other. If you have ever printed a sword or other telescoping object you know exactly what I am talking about. If you reduce layer height on the Tubes to save time, just know that it will be MORE noisy. 

I hope you enjoy this model. I never designed it with the intention of putting it out there, so I hope you all find a way to improve and make it more than I ever could.