Bionicle Bohrok 300% Scale

Here are most of the parts required to 3D print 300% scale Bohrok. I converted the files from .dat files found in the Stud.io library, as well as some from the BioPak and SioPak part library releases. 

My custom modeled krana holder and multicolor faceplate are listed in their own Printables posts. The only shield missing is the Pahrak shield, unfortunately I couldn't find a .dat file for it. Not all of the krana models are here, some were missing from the parts libraries.

Additionally, the file for the Tahnok shield (41661a_Tahnok_Shield) is a little rough, with empty space behind the axle that isn't present on the original lego part.

Printing tips

Several of these models require the use of negative volumes to adjust the clearances and prevent snapping during assembly. The 3mf files include these negative volumes, and should work properly in Prusaslicer, I have not tested them in any other slicers.

Horizontal expansion modifiers are required to get the friction right, a good starting point is -0.15 for any part with axle or pin holes, but this will have to be fine tuned  based on the material and printer. I used -0.25 on the shoulder liftarm pieces for example. This will take some trial and error, I recommend using the smaller pieces like SID_32174_Bionicle_Hand or a small piece of 41665_Bohrok_Body to fine tune these offsets. Too much friction will make the model very hard to assemble, and impossible to take apart if something breaks, so take your time to get this dialed in. 

41667_Bohrok_Lever_Gear needs to be strong, this part experiences a lot of stress. I recommend printing it with a minimum of 4 walls. 

For 41666_Bohrok_Gear_Neck, adjust the horizontal expansion modifier until they can rotate freely on an axle. Friction will make the lever gear more likely to break, and make the gear funtion harder to use. 

For rubber bands, hair ties work pretty well.  

SID_41670_Bohrok_Leg should be printed with a minimum of 4 walls, and an isotropic infill like gyroid. The axle connecting the ball to the leg can break when twisting the piece in the ball joint otherwise.

Supports are required for most of these parts. I recommend using organic supports, and dialing in your support interface distance to help with removal. Brims are also necessary for most of these parts. 

I printed this in PLA as a display model, but the ball joints will get loose if this is used to play with. If the model is going to be for more than display, then print in PETG or stronger, and adjust the offsets accordingly. 

Parts not in this post

Multicolor Faceplate

Krana Holder