March 6, 2024
Description
Hello 3D-friends :)
I designed a simple vortex machine here.
You can adjust the whirlpool strength with the controller. The lighting can be controlled individually. This can be controlled via push button, remote control or smartphone app.
And believe me, it looks even better in real life than on the photos. The light effect that shines on the ceiling also looks absolutely great.
Material List: (Affiliate Links)
You can assemble the Plexiglass tank yourself:
This requires a tube with an outer diameter of 133mm and an inner diameter of 127mm and 2 matching end caps. I chose a tube length of 250mm, but longer should be possible.
First, one side of the tube is glued to a cap. This is only possible with the Glue Acrifix. The best thing to do is watch a youtube tutorial !!!
The tank can then be filled to about 95%. I used distilled water for this. I also added a pinch of glitter to it. Use the large stirrer (35x9mm) and put it in the tank. Before the lid is glued on, the strudel should be tested first. No liquid should touch the lid at maximum vortex strength.
First the stand can be printed.
The best way to do this is to use this file in Prusa Slicer: “Wirbelmacher-Stand-FINAL-preconfigured.3mf”
All print settings are already optimally configured there.
Important: The main color is printed first. Then you switch to a transparent filament. Then again the main color. The next stop is also a filament change, but only serves to insert one of the LED rings. The LED rings must first be desoldered from the microcontroller. The ring should be fixed directly with hot glue. Also consider the correct orientation of the ring because of the cable. This should be at the very back.
The cable must also be attached to the floor with adhesive tape so that it does not come into contact with the extruder. Once the print is complete, the tape can be easily removed. Now continue the print with the main color.
Then switch back to transparent filament and finally I printed on TPU to have a rubber foot. If you also want to do this, it is important to reduce the speed manually on the printer to about 50%. The temperature should be increased to 235c.
Preparing the fan:
In my case it is a Corsair PWM fan with a diameter of 140mm. I still had this one. Of course, any PC fan with 120mm or 140mm can be used. But then you probably have to draw a cap for the fan motor with the magnets yourself. I also included the Fusion 360 file and the STEP file for this. Only 2 of the 4 wires are required here. 12v & GND (click me for PINOUT)
First remove the rotor cap by pulling straight up. It may be that you need some strength. A pipe wrench may help.
All rotor blades are then broken off and the rest removed with a cutter or saw.
Now "Vortexmacher-Rotor-FINAL-preconfigured.3mf" can be printed.
Then the 2 magnets can be inserted and fixed with a bit of hot glue. Important: Keep in mind the correct poles of the magnets for the stirrer. So test this first before you press the magnets in!
Then the rotor cap can be assembled with the magnet cap. If it doesn't fit, just sand something down. Then fix it with some glue. The fan frame can now also be removed. Simply saw off the connecting rods to the frame at the outer end.
Now the modified fan can be glued into the stand with hot glue. It is important that it is perfectly centered:
Now you can solder the electronics together. This is the circuit diagram:
Here are a few pictures for the electronic part:
Remove the plastic cover from the USB microcontroller. Now solder 2 wires on for 5v & Ground. Desolder the push button and resolder 2 wires on the left side as shown in the picture. They can then be soldered back to the extra push button. The connection to the LED rings must also be removed first, as one of the rings must already be inserted during the print itself.
If you are new to soldering and having trouble with it, use soldering fluid.
Solder 3 wires to the large potentiometer. Note the correct wiring here.
The potentiometer must be unsoldered on one of the DC-DC Step Down Modules. The connection to the large potentiometer is then soldered to the 3 contact points.
At the bottom right you can see the already glued-in push button. There are 4 wires soldered here. But this is unnecessary. 2 are sufficient (of course in the correct orientation).
The other 2 wires don't lead anywhere here either:
With the DC-DC step down module for the LED lighting, the output must be set to 5.2 volts. Just measure with a multimeter. So that the potentiometer is no longer adjusted for this purpose, it can be fixed with a bit of hot glue:
A piece of 3mm fiberglass needs to be hot glued to the IR receiver. The other side of the fiberglass comes through one hole. If it doesn't fit through, simply widen the hole a little with a 2.5mm drill. Then fix it with hot glue. If you have more meters of the 3mm fiberglass, this lamp could be interesting for you: https://www.instructables.com/Fiber-Optic-LED-Lamp/
Now everything can be soldered as shown on the circuit diagram. Before you install everything, it is advisable to test it for correct function. The components are fixed with hot glue. If the openings are not large enough for the components, simply enlarge them with a drill or file:
You have to solder the connection cable to the inside of the LED ring. The ring can then be fixed with hot glue or double-sided tape:
Now you can print the CAP: (Wirbelmacher-Cap-FINAL-preconfigured.3mf).
First use a transparent filament. Then use the main color filament.
Then just use some screws to mount it.
At the end the tank can be glued to the foot. But this does not have to be. But if it does, a special glue that can bond PLA and Plexiglass should be used. (Ruderer L530 Glue)
Find this project on AUTODESK Instructables: https://www.instructables.com/VORTEX-Mealstrom-Swirl-Whirlpool-Generator-Maker-M/
IF YOU ARE HAPPY WITH THAT, A LITTLE DONATION WILL BE VERY NICE <3 https://www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=5F525DYM8GXK4
License:
Standard Digital File License
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