Folding Airbrush Spray Booth - Compact, Effective

I've split the pieces into different print profiles based on their required strength/size - so make sure to use the individual profiles. Please accept my apologies for not correctly updating the original main profile.

I needed a spray booth to use with my airbrush and soldering iron at home without poisoning the atmosphere - specifically because I wanted to be able to switch to airbrushing acrylic primer and I didn't want to spend £80+ on a cheap piece of junk from Amazon. I designed this spray booth with a couple of key things in mind:

• Take up as little room as possible for storing - when folded away with the panels stored with it this takes up just 125mm x 370mm of space
• Be printable on a 256x256mmx256mm bed such as the P1S/X1.
• Be powerful at extracting and filtering.
• Be big enough to fit large models in and allow enough room for comfortable airbrushing.
• Have good lighting properties.

Having designed this for about two months and using it for about four weeks I'm comfortable this hits all my needs, without being overly large/expensive to print, although it will take a fairly long time to print all the parts.

Safety note - this will not completely replace a mask, especially if you're spraying anything that releases vapour. Always wear a safety mask depending on what you're doing.

Before you start this is what you'll need:

1. Two standard 120mm PC fans, preferably ones that are geared towards high static pressure. (I'm using some old Corsair ML120s) and standard fan mount screws.
2. A DC 12V transformer to power the fans and lights such as this one (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BRQ5HJ18?th=1).
3. A length of LED light strip such as this one (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0F8NNT5WZ).
4. Two core wire to attach the LED strip to the transformer such as this (https://www.hiline-lighting.co.uk/gb/led-strip-cable/352-flat-2-cores-cable-for-single-colour-led-strips-10-meters-roll-5060440712487.html).
5. Two core mains wire and a plug to connect the transformer to the mains.
6. Some filter material such as this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DF7RGL1K).
7. 2x M5x25mm bolts, 2x M5 bolts, 4x M5 washers for attaching the handle to the box.
8. Superglue & superglue activator.
9. 16x 5mmx1mm magnets for attaching the top and bottom panel to the box.
10. Materials to solder the connection for the LED strip.

Optional Extras:

1. 8x 10mmx2mm magnets for attaching the exhaust pipe to the box - if you want to use the exhaust pipe to move the fumes elsewhere. I use this in my back hallway and exhaust the fumes under the closed door of the downstairs bathroom where the extractor fan can then remove them. In the summer the pipe could be placed out of a window or door, or combined with another extractor adaptor.
2. 100mm flexible ducting such as this (https://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-pvc-flexible-ducting-hose-white-3m-x-100mm/18232).
3. 2x 100mm hose clamps. 
4. 1x male and 1x female pair of push-in connectors such as this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CZ996RY5) - if you want to be able to detach all the panels from the box for storage.

The process of printing and putting it together should be fairly self-explanatory, but I've added a thorough documentation of the process linked below. Fundamentally you need to do the following:

1. Print all the pieces you need.
2. Glue the halves of the top and bottom panels to each other to make single panels (I strongly recommend using CA/superglue and an activator to get a good bond).
3. Glue in magnets to all the available holes - making sure to use the correct polarity for the parts you want to magnetise together.
4. Identify the 5V and ground wires from the fans, cut the other wires off, feed them up through the hole in the box.
5. Attach the fans and the handle to the box.
6. Cut the filter material and place it in the filter tray, then push the filter tray into place in the box.
7. Wire up the transformer to the mains cable and plug.
8. Glue the LED strip to the underside of the top panel and solder the LED wire to it - making sure to connect to the right polarity.
9. Wire the fans and LED strip positive wire into the positive terminal on the transformer, and the same for the negative. These should be done in parallel (all cables go into the same transformer port).
10. Attach the transformer to the box with glue - hot glue is what I used, double sided tape would probably work as might superglue.

As long as all your polarities and wiring is correct you now have a spray booth that will extract the fumes from your airbrush/soldering iron. Just plug it into the wall and it should kick into gear.

If you're a more thorough electrical engineer than I you could add a switch of some kind into the circuit.