Dual Inputs for your X2D or P2S - MIM

Today I'm showing you a new model that I desperately needed. 
 

Anyone who follows my channel knows that I work with TPU very often. 
Therefore, I needed an elegant way to feed my TPU between the buffer and the input of my newly acquired X2D…..

…So, more or less the second I finished unpacking, I started planning and building this model.

It's a tiny part, but it represents a lot of work and dedication. To make the best use of the available space, I used my 3D scanner again and modeled my design around the standard part.

I love projects like this, but let me tell you something: working with this kind of data is no walk in the park. :D 

 

Instead of an external adapter, be it a 2-in-1, 4-in-1, or anything else, 
here, the standard part is replaced entirely, by this combination of splitter and printer input! 

As shown in the video, it works almost perfectly plug and play. The only thing that needs to be done is shortening the tube slightly. 

This approach allowed me to position the intersection of the two filament paths behind the back of the printer. I think it's safe to say that there's currently no more compact solution for this purpose.

So, why all this? 
I see several problems with using a "floating" splitter at this point.
 

1. This section of the PTFE tubes is moving while printing (due to the buffer). 
Any weight hanging from these tubes, or any potential pull on them, is technically disadvantageous.
 

2. With a free-floating splitter, the bend in the tube would inevitably be less gradual. 
What you want is a bend with the most consistent radius possible. My model ensures this.
 
3. It doesn't look particularly good, although that might just be my personal opinion. 
I prefer a solution that is completely invisible from the front. 
With this model, from the front of the printer you only see the tubes themselves.

Here you can see what I mean. The model exists secretly behind the printer; you don't even notice it. You can find my version of the TPU Feed Assist Module housing here: https://makerworld.com/de/models/2572121-tpu-feed-assist-module-low-profile-housing-mim#profileId-2835644
(The TPU inserts for nozzle storage, which are visible here, will also be uploaded soon!)

#############
###PRINTING###
############

As with some of my other models, I opted for a two part design to ensure extremely smooth printing of the filament channels. Since the geometry of the model, at least in one of the two halves, requires printing almost entirely on supports, I also decided to slice my main PLA profile with support interface material.

The parts are designed so that the filament channels can be printed completely horizontally. This prevents additional friction in the paths caused by layer lines that would otherwise be at right angles to the filament direction (e.g., when printing vertically).

However, I also offer a second profile without a support interface to make the model more accessible for single-nozzle printers. The model's functionality is in no way affected, and any less aesthetically pleasing areas are concealed when installed! :)

At the request of the community, I have uploaded additional profiles for other filament types. 
As of April 30, 2026, PETG HF and ABS are now also available.

I've conducted various tests and found that support interface materials "for ABS/ASA" or "for PLA/PETG" aren't ideal for this part. This model inevitably has very small sections with "fast" curves that didn't adhere well to the support materials.

I'll continue trying, but for now I'll stick with profiles without support material.

For the ABS profile, I scaled the model to 100.6%. This factor has proven suitable for my printer. 
Please note that ABS/ASA shrinks, and not always to the same extent (depending on several factors such as humidity, which is why I strongly recommend drying your material). So you may need to adjust this factor for your own print. 
Furthermore, I increased the layer height from 0.12mm to 0.16mm. At 0.12mm, I had several failed attempts.
I used a smooth PEI plate with a glue stick for this print.

I used the following materials in my tests, and I'll show you the unvarnished truth:

As you can see, the supported areas, especially on the ABS and ASA parts, didn't turn out very well visually.

The ABS GF part was printed with support material and achieved a relatively good result. The additional friction also had less of an impact than expected. However, I really don't want my TPU to come into contact with fibers. If this contamination were to get into the nozzle, it could quickly lead to a clog.

But let me tell you - all prints worked well in the end, and I emphasize once again that these ugly spots are not visible when installed.

 

 

General print profile settings:

.12mm(PLA, PETG HF) layer height / .16mm(ABS) layer heigh
4 walls

35% gyroid type infill

Wall generator: Arachne


#############
###HARDWARE###
############
 

First and foremost, the most important thing - The PTFE tubing connectors used here cannot be purchased individually in the Bambu Lab Store. 
You need the new 4-in-1 adapter…

which you have to disassemble to access these parts

Since this model had to be very compact, this was the only viable option in my opinion.

 

….other than that, the hardware list is short and as follows: 
 

- 3Pcs BT2x10mm self tapping screws - Maker's Supply Part Code AA192
M2x10mm screws also work, but you need to press them in a little harder than with self-tapping screws.
The countersinks have a diameter of 4mm. So also pay attention to the size of the screw head!

-2Pcs 6x2mm dowel pins - Maker's Supply Part Code  DA007
I also provide a profile for printable pins. I prefer metal parts in every respect, but these will work too!
 

-1Pcs M3x8mm buttonhead screw - Maker's Supply Part Code AA058

 

as well as some additional PTFE tube - which MUST be 2.5mm in inner diameter - otherwise this model can not work reliably. I recommend getting the official one to assure this! Maker's supply Code FAT005
 

#############
###ASSEMBLY###
############

 

..is very very simple and only needs basic tools. (1,5mm and 2mm hex screwdriver or ellen key)

 

Start with this half (for the simple reason that it stays still better than the other) and insert the three fittings and the two dowel pins. Make sure to press the fittings in firmly.

Then you can place the second half of the model on top, turn the assembly over, and screw it together with three BT2x10mm screws. (8mm screws will also work!)

Done!

Installation on your X2D or P2S is very easy! 

Please don't forget to shorten the hose by about 25mm or one inch. 
In the video, my hose was already shortened, and I didn't want to install and cut a longer hose just for demonstration purposes.

If you're not quite ready to get started with TPU printing, feel free to check out my other models! I guarantee you'll find something that can make getting started easier! :)

 

Boost MeI hope you like this model! It was fun modeling it to share it with all of you!
You can support my work at no cost for you, by boosting and liking the post. If you like what you see, please also be free to scroll though my other models, or even following me - it would be much appreciated! 

 

Kind regards, 
Simon, M.I.M