Router Insert template for Kreg, JessEm, O'Skool

This is a router table insert template that works with:

• O'Skool (1617/1618) - Tested
• JessEm Mast-R-Lift II (02120, 02123)
• JessEm Rout-R-Lift II (02310, 02311, 02312, 02313, 02314)
• JessEm Rout-R-Lift Prestige (02320, 02321, 02322, 02323)
• Kreg Precision Router Lift (KR-PRS5000)

I based this off of this model https://makerworld.com/en/models/246318#profileId-262690

That linked model didn't seem to have the right dimensions for the inner piece, it was too large. The joints were also too tight. I designed this version from scratch and made the following improvements:

1. Proper sizing 9.5mm x 235mm x 298mm or 3⁄8" x 9 1⁄4" x 11 3⁄4" . Radius is ~19mm
2. Improved tolerances I gave it a 0.2mm tolerance on the joints and a 1mm tolerance overall. It should slide in perfectly. You can glue the dove joint together (I didn’t)
3. Less filament This only uses about 160grams.

I did not create an inner template for this as each router’s requirements can differ. Simple plunge a hole, the precision there doesn’t matter, you won’t be able to see it.

Pro Tip. Increase the Z-axis scale to height that you need (make sure you're only increasing the Z and not using proportional scaling)

Instructions:

1. Measure the height of your router bit and bearing. Ensure that the Z-axis of the template matches that height. Print all four parts. Pay close attention to the connectors; one pair is intentionally off-centered to indicate correct orientation.
2. Place the template over the desired area. Use a speed square to ensure straightness and trace the inner perimeter.
3. Remove the template and cut out an area in the middle of the traced outline where your router will go. The exact size doesn’t fully matter; it just needs to be big enough to fit the router. Make sure to leave at least 1 inch around the edge of the perimeter that you traced (this is where the plate will sit). Tip: You can use a plunge router, or if you drill a hole, you can use a fixed router or a jigsaw. Don’t worry about the hole not looking perfect; it will be hidden by the plate. I used a jigsaw.
4. Put the template back on your table and align it with the perimeter you traced in step 2. Use double-sided tape to secure it in place. If you don’t have double-sided tape, you can use masking tape on the tabletop and the template and apply superglue/cyanoacrylate between the two tapes (I haven’t tested this, but I used double-sided tape).
5. Install a 3/4 inch mortising bit with a bearing on your plunge router. It’s important that there is a bearing otherwise you will end up destroying the template. Place the plate on top of the template. This is the depth you need to drill. Adjust the maximum depth of the plunge router to the height of the template plus the plate. Once you have the maximum depth set, go one step shorter (most plunge routers have this option). Do a test plunge to ensure that the bearing is touching the template; otherwise, your bit will destroy the template.
6. Route out the area, ensuring your router’s base is always on the template.
7. After finishing the first pass, change the stop on your router back to the full depth and make the second and final pass.
8. Install the plate using its screws/bolts.