Majora's Mask V2 - No AMS +Light Up Display Stands

~~~Update~~~
I've added a new print profile which includes two different display stands for your mask, and they both light up if you want them to as you can see in the new pics! Better yet, both stands work with either version of the mask!

Plates 1 and 2 have stand 1. This houses the Bambu led lamp kit light directly behind the mask allowing the eyes to glow very bright. One of the pieces also has holes along the sides aligning to the mask spikes to shoot light out behind them, though you'll need to add some Al foil on the weird cut circle shape thing so the light can reflect off of it. There's also a pair of little cylinders to add in the back of the eye sockets should the material your printed the mask in diffuse too much light lighting everything else up too. Don't care for the lights but still want the stand? All you'll need then is the tall part from plate 1 and the base from plate 2. 

Plates 3 and 4 have stand 2. This houses the Bambu led lamp kit light in the base, allowing the triforce in this version to illuminate, as well as the eyes through the help of adding some Al foil into the smaller cylindrical things to reflect the light towards the eyes. It also has the name plate if you want to displate that too.

~~~V2 Update~~~
I created a second version of the mask. The aim of this update was to reduce the total part count and adhesive use. As such, the total parts should now be cut down in half from the beginning to 34, down from the original 68. Just the mask that is, the back plates/mounts/pins will add more. A lot of the parts will now have alignment features that should help to hold everything together. My complete print of V2 is the silky/shiny version in the pics. The only glue on that are for the spikes, which I opted to keep like that to avoid some wonky geometry with the aligning pieces. Idk if there will be a V3, but I am working on a stand.

~~~

I'd always wanted a colored Majora's mask but have never been good with painting. Then multi-color printing comes along and I'm way too cheap to get a setup capable of running 10 colors. Have you ever found yourself in the same situation? Well, here's a Majora's Mask model you can print piece by piece, color by color. All 57 of em (The initial version had 68). It's really not that bad. And I did say in the title this doesn't need an AMS, right? (Of course the AMS can speed things up, but totally not necessary for this entire print)

Plate contents, Plates:

1-13 are essentially the same between V1 and V2

• Plates 1-7 all are single color
• Plate 8 has two spikes with three colors each. Print this plate 3 times, one for each of the red/green/blue spike pairs. I have it setup for the AMS, but these can be easily achieved with a simple filament swap as well.
• Plate 9 is the eyes, same thing as the spikes, either use the AMS or manually swap filament. Feel free to repaint these and the spikes if you have more filament colors to better achieve the gradient as I did with the yellow→red transition. Three colors should be good enough.
• Plate 10 has the base that fits the light from the LED lamp kit.
• Plate 11 has the flat black base, also with a little loop for a keychain which can be removed by splitting to object and deleting it.
• Plate 12 has an assembly guide/background frame thing if you wanna print that and put some tealights behind the eyes for a sooky effect.
• *Updated Plate 13 has the two pieces from the first plate that should be green not purple because my dumbass looked at the in game mask and finally noticed that…
• *V2 Plate 14 has the top orange/black pieces combined if you don't wanna deal with gluing all the little black bits into the orange, or sliding the combined black piece into the orange. In my experience, one was flawless, and the other snapped three of the black bits.
• *V2 Plate 15 A solid model of the mask if you want that for whatever reason

Off in the top corner of the profile is a completed mask if you wanna reference for build sequence. It shouldn't be too hard to figure out, but will require some adhesive. Most parts have a 0.15mm part-part clearance, so they may require a bit of force but be carful handling the parts so they don't snap, and glue in the spikes last.

I am planning a V2 to alleviate a lot of the need for adhesive and make aligning/assembling parts easier, plus some other efficiencies I gleamed from this initial version.

I'd also like to make a full size wearable version, but only have the A1 mini now, so that will be a bit lower on my list assuming I can break it up into nice small/manageable parts first. If only I had one of the larger machines…


Check out my other Zelda models!
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