Folding knife can transform into a short bayonet

This was my first public release. At the time, I was working with a DIY printer and developing my modeling proficiency through a process of trial and error.

By modern standards, this model is far from "perfect." The internal complexity forced me to partition the design into numerous small components. In the early days of 3D printing, I operated under the assumption that most users possessed advanced mechanical troubleshooting skills, as maintaining printers then required significant manual effort. However, as the industry has evolved, 3D printing has become far more accessible to everyone, regardless of technical background.

Please be advised: This model is not for everyone. It requires a high degree of patience and manual dexterity. I strongly recommend downloading the provided PDF instruction manual and examining the diagrams carefully. Due to the high part count, success is not guaranteed for novice users.

From a technical standpoint, I have considered refactoring this project. However, due to the fragmented nature of the original CAD files and the layered, unoptimized modifications from that period, a deep structural overhaul is currently unfeasible.

That said, the mechanism is functional. It has been tested extensively and will work if assembled correctly. Before you begin, please weigh the complexity: this is a challenging build with many small parts, not an "easy-to-assemble" kit.

No screw required. Just use 1.75 filament to attach all parts. Squeeze with pliers before insert

Please check the documentation for the installation method, you need to use 7 total engineers 1.75 filament

This is just a delicate toy, please do not use it violently, otherwise it will be easily damaged.

All holes have a diameter of 2.0mm, which accounts for potential tolerances in both the filament and the 3D printer. I cannot enlarge the holes further, as some printers may experience excessive looseness with 2.2mm holes—a nearly irreversible issue. If the holes are too tight for the filament, this can be resolved by carefully enlarging them with a 2.0mm drill bit.

I spent 2 weekends designing it, if you like them, please continue to support me, thank you.

Update: The wall printing order for gear and hinge parts has been adjusted to print outer walls first, then inner walls. This prevents hole shrinkage caused by filament oozing during printing. The updated settings are now included in the 3MF files.