Protean Flycore-Style Pusher

Update 06/03/2025: Turns out that i have uploaded the wrong Pusher STL, this could have caused feeding issues, the new one fixes them.

Introduction

This is a full-auto Pusher Group for the Protean Foam Blaster. Instead of the solenoid used for the default full-auto option it uses a N20 motor like the Flycore platform. This motor format not only it's small enough to fit into most blasters but it's also way cheaper than a solenoid and doesn't need any additional electronics to be driven.

Hardware 

Additional hardware notes: All M3 screws are cylinder head hex screws with one exception if you're a lefty: the Trigger screw, it should be a button head otherwise it will rub on your index finger and be uncomfortable. For the N20 motor I used a 600RPM one that is pretty slow but gives the blaster a controllable fire rate and you can easily pull off single shots. For the Pusher circuit I used 22awg wires like the one recommended by OldFusionDesign for the Flycore instead of the larger 18awg used for the main wiring. 

Printing Instruction

Just to be sure i printed all pieces with 5 perimeters and 15% infill but maybe 4 are also safe. The only part that needs supports is the N20 holder, while the Pusher needs a brim.

Print orientations:

Assembly

I'll start saying that this pusher group can use any Rapidstrike circuit and it has been explained better that i can elsewhere. 

First of all Screw together the Pusher and the Pusher Cam like so:

Then you can screw one of the M3x8mm in the Pusher Wheel:

Next insert the N20' shaft from the pointed side:

Then you should screw the 5a switch in the N20 Holder:

The SIDE the lever points towards doesn't really matter but TAKE NOTE OF THE ORDER OF THE CONTACTS !!! Otherwise you risk to solder the wires in the wrong order and burn out something.

Next you can insert the N20 in its hole in the N20 holder:

You can now insert the Rev Trigger and the 15a switches in the grip (not the main Trigger because it needs the Grip Panel before it can be screwed in place). 

Now it's a good time to solder the wiring and test out the circuit. The wires that power the Cage should be a couple of centimeters longer than what should be needed so that you can easily insert them in the side holes of the Upper, otherwise they'll tend to rub against the pusher. Remember that the wires soldered to the Pusher Switch and the ones for the battery should be routed only on the left side (looking from the side with the switch) of the N20 holder since the Upper doesn't have space for them on the other side.

Once the wiring is completed you can finish assembling the Grip: to begin you can already screw the Right Grip Panel on the Grip, then insert the main Trigger and its spring and put on the Grip Plate, now you can finally screw the Trigger in place.

Next bolt on the Lower Left and Lower Right pieces to the grip while keeping an eye on their orientation:

You can now insert the N20 Holder in the grip in this orientation: 

If you haven't done it already you can screw the Picatinny Rail (that is the same on all pusher variation) on the Upper Piece.

Now the hard part: the final assembly!

First of all be sure to orient the pusher and to route the wires like this:

Then put on the Pusher/Pusher Cam assembly on the grip like so:

Then you should insert the cage wires in the wire guides inside the Upper. Now you can slide the Upper on the grip while being careful not to pinch or crush any wires:

Then you can screw on the Upper with the bolts coming from the Lower pieces and you're done! You can now assemble your very own Full-Auto Protean!

Final Notes

The upper in the photos is an older prototype, due to the needed tweaks to the Pusher Wheel and the Pusher cam done to increase the pusher run it didn't have enough space for the sling bolts and so i needed to modify it, now it looks like this:

this also makes it compatible with my Fidlock plates using two M3x14mm bolts.

The Rev trigger it's not included in the files since it's the same as the Semi-Auto version.