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Unconscious Mind insert (holds Kickstarter "Id" edition w/ playmats and sleeves) 3D Printer File Image 1
Unconscious Mind insert (holds Kickstarter "Id" edition w/ playmats and sleeves) 3D Printer File Image 2
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Unconscious Mind insert (holds Kickstarter "Id" edition w/ playmats and sleeves)

Mscottie avatarMscottie

November 10, 2024

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Description

This is an insert designed to fit the game Unconscious Mind plus all the add-ons provided by in the Kickstarter "Id" pledge, including the Nightmares expansion, playmats, and premium sleeves. It should have little to no lid lift even with all the rulebooks, reference sheets, and the overlays and card holders I have designed and posted here.

This insert uses a base with cutouts for holding the various components in place. This base fills the entire bottom of the box snugly and is divided into four parts so as to fit most printers. I have not found it necessary (so far) to glue these parts together—they seem to stay in place just fine via friction and the interlocking of all the other components.

Many of these models have embossed text sections which can be printed in one of three different ways:

 1) Use a second color to fill in the embossed area (as seen in the pictures for this insert). If your printer supports multiple materials (or if you know how to manually manage filament changes), you can import the main model .stl file and it's corresponding "_text.stl" file together as one part, then set the parts' colors as desired. (I've also provided two .3mf files with all the models pre-loaded in 0.16 and 0.20 settings for Orca Slicer if that is your slicer.)

 2) Have no embossing. You basically follow the same steps as above, but don't select a different color for the "_text.stl" parts of the models. In this case, you might want to print the parts in different colors (especially for the player boxes) so they can be more easily distinguished from each other.

 3) Use a "negative" embossing where material is simply omitted from the embossed areas. To print like this, ignore the "_text.stl" files and just print the main model files by themselves. Note that you mat need supports for some of the embossed models (where the embossing is "down"). I have not printed any of these files this way and you might find the depth of the embossing weakens the printed models. YMMV.

The boxes with lids print best at 0.16 line height (0.4 nozzle) but 0.20 is OK for everything else. You really want to use 0.16 (or lower) for the boxes with lids—and the lids themselves—as there are some small but steep overhangs that are supported much better by a slightly smaller line height. (Check your slice preview.) No supports are needed if you print at 0.16 or lower. Also, the four "deck box" models (clients_deck_box.stl, dreams_deck_box.stl, grief_layer_deck_box.stl, and research_cards_deck_box.stl) print with the open end "up" and the riser part should not need supports if you print them at 0.16 layer height or lower and slow down and cool while printing the overhangs.

I printed these with 10% crosshatch infill (if your slicer doesn't support crosshatch, gyroid is really good, too), and 5 top layers to ensure nice, smooth top surfaces. PLA+ works great for all of these models.

Finally, the lids for all the boxes are friction fit and fit the bottom of their boxes so they don't get lost during play. The tolerances on these can be somewhat tight, but they came out beautifully on my Bambu X1C.

The number of copies of a model you need to print is indicated by an "_x" suffix on the file name. If there is no "_x" suffix, then you just need one.
 

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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