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Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini2 Drone 3D Printer File Image 1
Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini2 Drone 3D Printer File Image 2
Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini2 Drone 3D Printer File Image 3
Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini2 Drone 3D Printer File Image 4
Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini2 Drone 3D Printer File Image 5
Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini2 Drone 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini2 Drone 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini2 Drone 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini2 Drone 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini2 Drone 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5

Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini2 Drone

idlebear avataridlebear

February 8, 2022

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Description

Pelican 1200 Conversion for DJI Mini 2 Drone

I needed a case for my new Mini2 (thanks Santa!) because the bag that comes with the base kit was lacking in so many ways. Too fragile. No prop management. No place to keep all the little fiddly bits like screws, props, and other accessories...

However, I happened to have a Pelican 1200 case lying around with no other purpose in mind. It far outlasted whatever it was meant to keep safe. Now, thanks to the miracle of 3d printing, the case has new life.

The Trays

I've designed a two part lower tray to hold the drone, two separate batteries, and the controller. The upper tray holds parts and other tools. Another battery also fits (loosely) at the back if necessary.

Finally, there should be just enough room to include a small log book for record keeping under the tray.

Prop Storage

There are bins that can be used to keep small parts and propellers. They fit into the compartments of the upper tray.

MicroSD cards

If you have a set of MicroSD cards that you keep with your drone, there's a block that holds nine of them, and the block fits within one of the printed bins. The slots are labelled in case you need to track that sort of thing. When placed in the block, inside the box, with the lid, the cards should stay there and not migrate to points unknown.

Printing

The upper tray prints in two parts: a collar that should fit snugly at the top edge of the bottom part of the case, and the tray itself.

Some blocks with fillets on the bottom make sense to print face down (with the letters on the plate) as this eliminates the overhang of the curve in exchange for easy bridging.

The bin lids should be printed top face down.

A support enforcer for the finger cutout on the lid, keeps that part cleaner. You shouldn't need supports anywhere else.

 

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

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