I got a suggestion/request to put meshing herringbone gears on the outside of my rings, so one can drive another. Great idea, and here it is. Thanks to pixel9 for the idea.
Playing with 4 gears that way is more crampy than relaxing though.
Other fidget gear rings are available here.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Printing:
The 3mf files are split into 5 parts for multi-color printing.
- the sun gear (inner ring)
- the main parts of the planet gears
- the lower 0.38mm (two layers) of the planet gears
- the upper 0.38mm (two layers) of the planet gears
- the outer ring gear
If you choose a different color for only parts 3 and 4, only 4 color changes are required, resulting in low filament waste with single-nozzle multi-color printers. Color changes can also be done manually.
General settings:
- I use 0.4mm nozzle and 0.17mm layer height
- random seam placement
- a bit of elephant foot compensation (say 0.2mm)
- I prefer NOT only one perimeter/wall on top layer
- 3 walls
- I also usually paint seams on the inside into one of the turn tool slots.
- Good bed adhesion is essential due to the small footprint.
This model requires a well dialed-in printer and filament combination; depending on these and the settings, the gears may
- rotate freely and quite smoothly right from the plate,
- need some force to break free,
- need some minutes of breaking in to run smoothly,
- be totally fused together.
If you have problems with fused gears:
- use force; if it breaks it wasn't usable anyway.
- try a different filament; some (like silk) are more prone to ooze and fuse than others.
- try reducing the extrusion multiplier/flow ratio a bit
- try a slightly negative XY size compensation (e.g. -0.02)
(OrcaSlicer: negative for contour, positive for holes) - try printing outer walls first
- try reducing acceleration and speed
- try reducing the temperature
You can support me on ko-fi.
Have fun!
DrJones
