~1/4 Scale Mini Model 2/2T Siren

OVERVIEW + IMPORTANT INFO!!

My original model 2 was one of my more popular models among people creating my sirens due to the lack of complexity and affordable design. However there was one glaring problem with it… It SUCKED SO BAD!!!!

Everything was unproportionally accurate, the rotor was directional and it wasn't even dual intake. With this model 2, I started COMPLETELY from scratch and I actually did use some real measurements and scale factors while modeling the rotor!

This is (as of right now) the most realistic ~¼ scale public model 2 file on Printables currently and I hope you all enjoy it!!

PARTS LIST:

Motor - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Micro-11600-12000RPM-Remote-Control/dp/B07M8FJBQZ/ref

Hardware Kit #1 (Bigger leg attachment + mounting bolts) - https://www.amazon.com/Machine-Assorted-Assortment-Stainless-Threaded/dp/B0DFWYBJJJ/ref

Hardware Kit #2 (Smaller M1 sized bolts) - https://www.amazon.com/AvrestYPT-Stainless-Assortment-Phillips-Electronics/dp/B0F8V7G8T8/ref

POWER SUPPLY (OPTIONAL):

Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-100-240V-50-60Hz-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0D7GGGM6Q/ref

Speed Controller: https://www.amazon.com/RioRandTM-Upgraded-6V-90V-Motor-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ/ref

ASSEMBLY:

The assembly for this siren is a very simple straight-foreword process that should be even easier than the last model 2 due to the absence of glue.

I would recommend starting off with the rotor. First, decide if you are going to make a model 2 or 2T. You'll want to print the Motor Tolerance Tool part and fit your motor into each hole starting from the biggest going to the smallest. Whatever sized hole fits the snuggest but also not way too tight on your rotor corresponds to the rotor with that same size. For example, if If the 2.25mm tolerance fit my motor best, I'd print the 2.5mm rotor. 

For the next step, you'll want to print the Model 2 Base Piece. This is what holds the motor and connects pretty much everything together in the center. Once you have it printed, slide your motor in through the bottom. Take two short M3 bolts and bolt the motor onto the base piece through the two holes on the top. Once you have your motor in place, I would recommend soldering your wires onto the motor since now is an easy time do do so.

Next, you'll want to have your stator printed out in order to see how far down your rotor should go. Start pressing the rotor onto the motor shaft and with each nudge down the shaft, put the stator on top and check your alignment. The rotor will keep sliding down the shaft even when it reaches it's proper place so keep that in mind!!

Once your rotor is on the shaft, feel free to start up the motor and see how much air it makes!! It's always good to test throughout the project just to make sure things are working how they should. 

From here on, the rest is very easy and there's no more technical components. All that's left is to bolt the legs on with M3 sized bolts and attach the stator along with the spacer ring and intake.

In order to attach the stator, spacer ring, and intake, you'll first want to put the stator on top of the rotor. Then, take the right size of tiny bolt (the hardware kit sucks and is usually unorganized) but it should be around the bottom left. Screw those bolts up through the bottom of the base piece into the stator. Before they poke out of the top of the stator, layer your spacer ring on top of the stator brim and fully finish pushing the bolt in. Repeat this for all three sides and add nuts on top of each bolt to lock it in place. You can also add four M3 bolts in the top of the fake bearing holder!

All that's left for the core is to attach the intake cone. It uses the same size bolts as the stator took to attach except a smaller length and going into the top portion of the stator. Just like the stator, secure it with bolts on the insides! The last step is to take your Model2BrushDeco piece and weld it onto the bottom of the two little brush holder pegs underneath the siren. You can also glue if you'd like. 

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Shroud assembly:

The shroud isn't very complicated and can be printed however you like. It is designed to be plastic welded together with a soldering iron upon completion although if you prefer using glue, you can also use super glue. I wouldn't recommend hot glue as it leaves a gap in-between parts and really isn't that strong.

Mounts:

The mounts are pretty self explanatory. The three holes on the base all bolt upwards into the model 2 legs. From there, they are secured with nuts on top. 

As for all my models, if you do build it, feel free to leave a comment on my YouTube or this Printables page. I'd love to see what you made!