February 12, 2026
Description
From the Japanese multi-media franchise PATLABOR: The Mobile Police, the ARL-99 HELLDIVER is a Labor used by the Japanese Self-Defense Ground Forces, manufactured by Shinohara Heavy Industries.
The OpenFigure3D version features many innovations in our fully 3D printable articulated figure system, we keep improving our expertise to make your printing and assembly experience more enjoyable.
The main designer is Dany Sánchez, who is also behind MiniWorld3D and the other OpenFigure3D models of Iron Man & Samus.
FULL INSTRUCTIONS further BELOW, for now consider that:
This is an medium-to-advanced level print & assembly. It will require patience and organization.
Besides the main figure, many accessories have been added.
OpenFigure3D is an account where several designers and 3D artists share 3D printable articulated figures & sculptures. These could be free fanarts or originals.
THIS MODEL IS FREE, DO NOT BE FOOLED AND PAY FOR IT ELSEWHERE.
Please don't publish these files elsewhere. OpenFigure3D is meant to be OPEN, contact us if you want to be a part of it.
This is no Bandai, Hot Toys, S.H. Figuarts, Figma, Black Series figure. It's 3D printed so it will not be perfect - but hey, it's free and fun!
This is a fanart for personal use, it's not intended to replace official merchandise.
TAKE YOUR TIME. Save this, print this on paper, come to it later. [ASSEMBLY VIDEO instagram coming soon]
This is a "labor" (anthropomorphic mecha robot) used by the Japanese army in the Patlabor series of manga, anime and other media. As such, it features heavier armor and camouflage, as well as weapons suited for the kind of missions and combat that JSDGF need.
You'll see folders with the body parts, named as clearly as possible. Both limbs are provided labeled "L" or "R" to distinguish them. Some parts have been split to offer the option to be printed without supports with flat side on the print bed, and glued after.
Increased ease of printing and assembly.
Every part is already oriented in what we consider the best option, flat sides for plate contact.
Both limbs are provided, so no more mirroring and losing track.
Sturdier and more elaborate articulations, slotted ball joints and pegs, raw filament pins.
No glue is necessary at all for the standard version. The alternative version reduces supports but requires glue.
Part splitting for a colorful result even with a single extruder.
Pre-painted 3MFs provided for multicolor printing (MMU, AMS, INDX).
4.1 Scale. At 100% scale, it works great with a 0.4mm nozzle, standing at about 19 cm (7 1/2 inches) tall. You can scale up for a stronger, easier assembly. We don't recommend scaling smaller unless you use a resin printer or 0.2mm nozzle. If scaling up or down, use the provided pin pegs instead of raw filament clippings.
4.2 Most parts need supports. A few others don't, or are provided split in halves that can be printed flat and glued after.
Modern slicers like PrusaSlicer allow part splitting and adding holes and pegs for an easy assembly, so if you prefer to do your own splitting and orientation, please do so.
4.3 Orientation on the print bed matters a lot, especially for strength of articulation parts, like ball joints. In general, they tend to break at the layer lines, so for example, print sockets and ball joints horizontally so the layers run along it. It is preferable to have a strong part that won't break during assembly than a smooth looking one that will snap instantly and be useless.
We have provided all parts already oriented in what we consider to be the most optimal, and many have a flat side for direct contact with the plate.
Depending on your supports setting and bed adhesion, you can print without brims, except for really small parts. Consider that using brims fuses everything together in the first layer and makes removal much more difficult.
We recommend printing slightly slower than default, such as Stealth / Silent mode. The longer print time is well worth the better accuracy and surface finish.
Tests worked will with 2 perimeters and 10% crosshatch infill, however, you can use 3 perimeters or denser infill for peace of mind.
Some limb parts are interchangeable, it doesn't matter if Left or Right because they are identical.
Your slicer may indicate some errors on parts. Ignore, slice as usual, they print fine, as you can see in our photos.
Feel free to try different supports, orientation, and settings in general if you find they work better for you.
5.1 Cleanup. Be careful when removing supports, brims, and any debris or imperfections that may cause interference between parts, because removing too much may make a part too loose. Test first and remove little by little.
5.2 Tolerances. There is a huge variation between printers, settings, filament materials, brands, etc. Please understand that it is impossible to have a universal file that works perfectly every time for everyone.
It's easier to adjust manually by shaving off bits with a knife or sanding until fit is perfect. Sometimes it fits nicely right off the printer. The problem to avoid is making a joint too loose, which makes the figure like a rag doll. If this happens to you, you can:
a) coat the inside of sockets and ball joints with nail polish, let it fully dry.
b) insert a lining made of a tiny piece of paper or plastic bag between the parts to fill the gap and make it tight.
c) use clay or tack, but not permanent glue.
d) reprint the part with a different material, or scaling up or down by 1%.
5.3 Fractures. If a joint breaks, we designed small parts that you can reprint without replacing a whole body part. None of the ball joints broke when printed laying horizontally, as layer lines run along it. In contrast, they snap easily if the layer lines run perpendicularly. This also allows you to print all articulation interface parts with TPU or a stronger material like PETG.
5.4 Assembly. [PDF manual coming soon] It's a pretty straight-forward puzzle, you can see the photos if you have doubts. Be kind but firm. Insert small parts to larger ones first, before doing larger ones to each other.
5.5 Paint. Feel free to paint the figure, or print it in colors. It could benefit from applying a dark wash to darken the simulated gaps and part crevasses.
[PDF instructions coming soon]
6.1 Head: insert the visor to the front and the socket under the head. Insert the neck ball joint into the socket.
6.2 Chest: insert the neck into the peg in the chest. Insert the armpit cloths to both sides.
6.3 Arms: first, insert the shoulder peg to the shoulder and pass a piece of raw filament as a pin to hold it together. Then add the shoulder plate armor's peg to the hole in the shoulder peg. Fit the elbow into the shoulder, and then it to the forearm with another filament pin. Finally, insert any choice of hand.
6.4 Hips: insert both pegs on one side of the hip cloth (beige). Hold both hip armor parts (green) together and "sandwich" them with the hip cloths (beige), pressing to fully clip them together. Insert the top peg into the underside of the chest. Insert the hip ball joints into both leg sockets.
6.5 Legs: insert the ankle socket clip to the foot, and then its ball joint to the shin. Clip the knee (beige) to the shin and the thigh. Finally, insert the hip socket into the thigh.
6.6 Extras: clip the knife sheath to the bracket behind the hips. Insert the knife to the sheath.
The gun inserts into a slot in the right arm, and the ammo magazine strip also inserts in a circular hole in the right arm; with heat or bending by hand, roll the thin ammo magazine and insert into the gun' slot.
There are 3 options for visors: regular (blue or red), a shield (black and larger), and night-vision goggles.
The camouflage poncho can be 3D printed or regularly printed on A4 paper with the provided PDF / .png. If using 3D printing, it is recommended to use no top or bottom solid layers (zero), and gyroid infill (or other meshy patterns) at high percentages, such as 30-50%. It has 2 layers only, so it's flexible with heat and can have 2 colors with pause and change filament color.
If printing on A4 paper, use the template and print any camouflage pattern you like.
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That's it! Thank you so much for printing our figures! We hope to see your make photos here or on Instagram at @openfigure3d
Please remember to keep this models to yourself, support us by not re-publishing or selling them. We will continue to create more free fanarts and originals.
Main photos by Dany Sánchez on a Prusa MK4 with SpiderMaker matte PLA coyote brown & Prusament galaxy black PLA; on a Bambu Lab X1C with Bambu Lab matte dark green PLA.
[ ! ] This figure is for personal use ONLY - do not distribute digital files or sell physical reproductions.
Patlabor Characters, Names And Related Indicia Are Property of their respective owners. This model is a non-profit, fan work inspired and based on the appearances on screen. You are forbidden from selling this 3D digital file or physical print. No infringement is intended.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — NoDerivatives
OpenFigure3D
