January 2, 2026
Description
"She is an odd ship, to be sure, but majestic in her own way."
- Kmakl, from Rhythm of War by Brandon Sanderson
NOTE: In accordance with Brandon Sanderson's Copyrights, under no circumstances are these files or prints from these files allowed to be used in any commercial fashion; that is, no one may make money from these in any way.
This model is based upon the artwork of Kelley King. Not an exact copy, but obviously heavily based upon it. I had to make some changes to adopt it for 3D printing and for assembly. Notably, the door doesn't go all the way up to the 3d deck. I already had to make the decks taller, and I needed a way to brace the bow-pieces of the second deck together.
Made for the Cosmere RPG system - made horizontally to scale for Cosmere Miniatures. I had to make it taller than the scaled version to try to accommodate tall models. (Thanks a lot, Skybreakers, ruining it for everyone. Typical. )
Depending on how you assemble this, you can have individual pieces put together on a table, or you can have entire decks that can be removed to have action occur across multiple decks of the airship, then the pieces can be replaced for transit and display.
Using magnets works quite well to keep the pieces together, but be sure to get the orientations correct so that they adhere together. In my experience, even if you get a couple wrong it will still all hold together pretty well.
I had a lot of fun printing this - it is easily my biggest print ever (and coolest), and I assumed it would be easy to model because "hey it's a box." Wrong. I ended up adding in some textures for the floor planks early on, and copying those over for each square on each deck made this a massive file that had my computer crying every time I tried to do anything with it. Also, a lot of trial and error went into making sure everything was going to fit right.
This should fortunately be printable on just about any printer. I designed it to fit on the A1 Mini/Prusa Mini.
Very few pieces are intended to be a tight fit, so you will need lots of glue.
Right front, she thought. Should we be using nautical terms instead? But this isn't the ocean. We're flying.
-Rhythm of War, by Brandon Sanderson.
Good question, Navani Kholin.
Yes, Navani, you should be using nautical terms. Because I did.
-Me, while designing this airship in Fusion.
If you're paying attention to the piece names (you should, because some are very similar but not exactly the same) They're named for :
Which deck they are apart of:
First Deck on bottom, up to the Fourth Deck on top.
Which side of the ship they are on.
Port - left side of the ship
STBD (Starboard) - Right side of the ship.
Which frame they are apart of (or, as close to frames as I could get here - each actual nautical frame would be slightly less than one square, and therefore pointless to actually reference here)
Bow, 2nd Frame, 3rd Frame, Stern, in that order.
These names are located on the bottom of the first through third decks. I didn't do the Fourth Deck because it's pretty difficult to mix those up.
Use the indexing squares inserted into the square holes on the bottom to align pieces together, and glue the edges together along with the indexing squares. Magnets will help assemble the decks together.
Assemble each deck separately and then use magnets to hold them in place for transport. Remove decks as necessary for play.
On the first deck: Mount the door on the two rods for it on the bow pieces before gluing those pieces together. Hypothetically it should be able to snap in place. I haven't tried that yet.
Use wood clamps for holding larger pieces together.
Use small plastic clamps to hold the support-pillars together. With the Indexing squares and clamps on the support pillars, it is not particularly difficult to keep everything aligned while the glue dries.
Glue edges and Indexing squares in place all at the same time. The indexing squares are not necessarily for structural support, but to help with alignment.
Do not glue the back "Fan Body" pieces to any of the main deck pieces. With magnets these provide decent structural support, and can make it hard to get the Second and Third decks off.
Using thin steel sheets between the decks to give additional support for each deck.
Forgoing the magnets, using some kind of crafting boards to glue the pieces to. Keep each deck separately.
Budget Option: Forgoing any assembly at all, keeping everything in a box, and placing pieces in the appropriate configuration on the table at time of play.
Will also save you the headache of days spent gluing everything.
Set aside a week to get this done. On my P1S alone, it's +5 days worth of printing. My Tenlog helped with a few pieces to shorten things up a bit.
Then there is the glue-up to worry about for time.
Clean your build-plate. Bed adhesion is critical here.
Clean your printer. Clean and regrease and do whatever else you have to do before starting this project. Calibrate everything ahead of time.
Most parts are intentionally designed for printers with lower accuracy/tolerances, but if you're putting this much filament, time, and money into this thing, do it right the first time.
Calibrate your filament temperatures. Do not just go off of what the box says. You will need to do some bridging here.
Brim - You will need one for all of the main body pieces.
Supports - Not necessary for most pieces.
The 2nd Deck Bow pieces, Door, Aft Roof, and Fabrial Housing (the spiky bits) pieces do need supports.
Walls: 3
Infill: 10-15%.
Dedication. This literally maxed out the plate limit in BambuStudio/Orcaslicer.
PLA
(3) 1kg Rolls PLA for base fuselage color
4 rolls if you make mistakes or the print warps.
(1) Other color for additional pieces (Fans, Fabrial Housings, Indexing pieces etc).
(1) Other color for the roof piece. I recommend a dark or Cobalt Blue.
(Optional) Third color for Bridge Four multicolor with AMS (see the .3mf file)
(240 to 360) 6x3mm Magnets (Cylindrical) - You don't need to fill in every single magnet hole - use at your own discretion. You can probably use as few as 140 by not filling in all four of each "four-pack" spots.
60-120 Magnets for Rear Fan Body Mount (Works perfectly fine with 60 magnets total)
0 - 60 Magnets for First Deck Bottom (if you are intending on mounting the bottom on a steel sheet)
40 Magnets for the First Deck Top
40 Magnets for Second Deck Bottom
40 Magnets for Second Deck Top
40 Magnets for Third Deck Bottom
10 Magnets for Third Deck Top
10 Magnets for Fourth Deck Bottom
Superglue - A lot of it. Like, a whole lot.
(Optional) String to attach the door and raise/lower it.
Deburring Tool
Small clamps (3D printed ones will be best, as they are light)
(Optional) Large wood clamps
(Optional) Two Magnet Insertion Tools (Printable tool)
NOTE: In accordance with Brandon Sanderson's Copyrights, under no circumstances are these files or prints from these files allowed to be used in any commercial fashion; that is, no one may make money from these in any way.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — NoDerivatives
David McFarland
