Another Tiger Tank 1/20 scale

This is a 1/20th scale Tiger tank.  I was not trying to create a historically correct model, just a model that would be reasonably fun to put together, look decent, and not send you to the hardware store for more pieces to complete.  As always these are created from whatever free drawings I can find that might be scaled.  

Everything needed to assemble is printed with the exception of some fast set epoxy, and in this case springs for the suspension.  Springs could be omitted if you decide to glue the suspension arms in place for a more static model.  The track is held together with printed pins or filament can also be used. A couple clamps are nice to keep a couple things aligned as I found plastic parts can warp. The normal print clean-up tools and a 1/4 " round file was good at cleaning up holes to provide smooth rolling. 

This is a fairly large model with about 350 parts to print and will use more than a kilo of plastic to print.  I tended to lean towards simpler parts with more assembly required to reduce the complexity of the prints.  I think the end result is a better-quality model than some I have done with smooth rolling movement and a suspension that should make for a relatively good RC model.  Guessing I will have to reprint the lower hull when I get to the RC phase as the weight of the batteries and electronics will throw off the weight of the model and require some modification to the springs and supports to keep it in balance.

Updated Turret and Mantlet front profile was too wide.

Added an RC version here which could also be printed as a rolling model.  

Parts inventory

Print

These are not absolutes as I am no print expert but hopefully a few hints to help print.  I printed most at .16mm layers and used supports where necessary in PLA+.  When using support, I set the support overhang angle to 75% which helped stop the slicer from putting support in any 6mm holes that would be hard to clean up and unnecessary.  It tended to put support where absolutely necessary with that setting.  Most parts need only touching build plate support but the turret and front bottom hull definitely need full support.  Using a support roof layer with a gap to print of .3mm helped keep the print clean and make support separation easier.  

Assembly Hull

I am not that great with glue and assembly and tend to make a mess, but less glue is usually better. Test fit everything to ensure prints are free from burrs and things that will make parts not mate cleanly.  All holes in parts are about 6mm and should be filed with a 1/4" round file to ensure a cleaned up axle will move smoothly.

1) Glue Front and Rear bottom hull segments

2) Clean up the driver port pieces and make sure it the view port slides OK.  Glue driver port into the Front Top hull segment.

3) Glue Front and Rear hull top segments to the Hull bottom.  I find a couple of adjustable clamps helpful and sometime rubber bands help keep things tight while the 5 min epoxy sets.  The driver Port must be installed ahead of this as it won't slip in later.

4) Insert right and left axles and glue an axle stop in to hold them in place.  Each axle should have a 1mm spacer to between the axle arm and the hull.

5) Make up 16 road wheel sets from the 48 road wheels by glueing together 3 road wheels with a 12mm spacer.  I printed the rear axle and used it for alignment while glue set then recleaned up the hole with a 1/4 file.  Each wheel set should have two wheels back-to-back, a 12mm spacer, and the third wheel with the detail facing outward.  If you did tires in TPU they should just stretch around each wheel and hold in place without glue.

6) When cleaned up wheels can go on the axles alternating the double pair inward or outward.  For the inward pair wheel start with an 8 mm spacer, the wheel set, then secure with an Axle plug and a touch of glue.  For the outward pair start with a 1 mm spacer, the wheel set, then an 8 mm spacer, and secure with an axle plug and touch of glue.  See picture for the layout.  The first wheel set should have the wheel pair in an outward orientation and alternate from there.

7) You should be able to slip springs into the holes and under the axle stop pin.  I used a combination of 4 and 5 mm springs from a kit that were 10 - 15 mm long.  See picture.  I had to adjust them to account for the weight of the tank as I completed it so leave it to you to balance your suspension out.  The one in the front was a bit of a challenge.  Spring assortments of tiny springs are under $10 at your favorite online vendor.

8) Assemble the drive sprockets, each uses two sprockets and a sprocket spacer, align on a spare axle and clean up when set.  Assemble the idler wheels, each uses two wheels and a 12 mm spacer, same routine.

9) Glue drive guards on front hull.  Align with the spare axle used to make wheel sets.  Clean up with 1/4 inch file. Install drive sprockets with front axles with taper inward secure with Axle Plug and bit of glue.

10) Install Idler wheels with rear axle using additional 12 mm spacer between hull, secure with Axle Plug and bit of glue.

11) Link together 70 track pieces one right one left with Track Pins and a tiny bit of glue to secure the pin head to the track.  (7 - 10 piece segments).  Install track around wheels, sprocket, and idler secure with final track pin.  Adjust number of cleats to be somewhat taught but lay as shown in picture.  You might need to remove or add a couple segments.  Track pin heads should face outward, the guides on track should fit outside the double wheel pairs and inside the outer single wheels.  Sprocket should engage the track cleanly .

12) Install side fenders.  You can print as one piece if you printer accommodates the size.  Used the guides on the side of the hull to ensure they are positioned correctly.

13) Install front, rear fenders and exhaust stacks.  Test fit to ensure alignment and glue in place.  If you want the front fenders to lift on the hinge you will need to cut under the tab that secures it to the outer piece of the fender.  

14) Install the hull base MG.  Glue it into upper hull and the ball and gun should snap in.

Assembly Turret and Deck

1) Join top deck pieces.  Deck can be printed as one piece if printer size accommodates it.

2) Insert turret through deck and glue Turret base to it.  Be careful to keep glue only to mating surface.

3) Glue turret base roller to bottom of deck around Turret base.  When secure add 8mm spacers as rollers and secure with Axle plugs. When turned upright the turret should ride on a lazy suzan and turn very easily.

4 ) Secure Mantlet to Turret with Turret pins and secure with a touch of glue.  The mantlet moves freely thinking of adding and actuator later.  For a static model you will need to stiffen the action or glue in an acceptable elevation.

5) Glue Deck hatches, and grates to the deck.

6) The main gun just slides into mantlet.  

7) Connect hinge to Turret hatch with a piece of filament.  Glue hinge to turret.

8) Install the Commander hatch and clean up the Lid to close and attach with a piece of filament.

9) Attach the Turret Bin to back of turret between the two pistol ports.

10) Added smoke canisters, attach to turret if desired.