“If you see me, it's already too late”
SPIRIT
A brushless flywheel blaster
by wonderboy
v1.6.2 - 11/18/2024
Once upon a time, I really wanted to build a T19 dart blaster (by torukmakto4). Some time later, I saw a Gryphon remix with a T19 flywheel cage (by dpairsoft). This inspired me to try and create something of my own…
Starting with the T19's flywheel cage and flywheels, and the grip and magwell from Cynthia (by Sillybutts), I worked to mash the two together into a functional end product.
What resulted is something I ended up being quite happy with; a capable SMG-styled blaster with superb performance (I like it, anyway).
Features:
Adjustable muzzle velocity from 0-225 fps (dart dependent). Currently, there are three pre-configured modes for 120, 150, and 200 fps (with good darts).
Capable of 15+ darts per second with a double sprung FTW Hyperdrive solenoid.
Count-up ammo counter and battery voltage readout.
Tournament mode (simplified menu, idle pre-rev).
Optional TPU buttplate.
Optional thumbhole grip support.
Optional BCAR (Bearing Centering And Rifling) muzzle. Tests suggest improved accuracy with <5% performance loss.
Notes **READ ME**:
PARTS ARE NOT PRE-ORIENTED FOR PRINTING - Parts that should need supports are indicated as such in the comments on the file list. Take note of any highly filleted edges when orienting your parts; those fillets are not likely to print cleanly if not oriented correctly. If oriented correctly, those parts will print with a nice square block of support that should be easy to remove.
The .f3d and .step assemblies are a bit behind the posted files at the moment, I recommend using the files posted to Printables rather than extracting from the assemblies for now.
Cage and flywheels should be printed in a temperature-resistant filament (PETG, ABS, ASA, etc.) because the motors can get warm enough to soften PLA.
Everything has to fit in the stock behind the solenoid - including the battery, so be considerate with your wiring management. Use the “Separator” part to separate the battery from the wiring inside the stock.
Running motor wires through the wire tunnel in the FrontBlock part is best accomplished by sheathing the 3 motor wires in a bit of heatshrink, applying a lubricant, pushing the wires through as far as you can, then pulling them through with a pick/tweezers.
The latest version of the Arduino software includes code that utilizes features of torukmakto4's Flyshot ESC firmware. Flyshot is only compatible with select older ESCs making use of SimonK firmware from factory. To learn more about Flyshot, and flashing it to an ESC, check out torukmakto4's blog. With Flyshot, rather than setting a throttle value, we can set a target RPM. Combined with other optimizations, this improves performance across the board; especially when operating at lower power.
Parts:
1x Arduino Nano/Pro Micro
2x Resistors to make a 16.8V → 5V voltage divider (47K/20K ohm)
1x Resistor for MOSFET gate to ground (10k ohm)
1x IRLB3034 MOSFET
1x 1N5404 (or similar) Rectifier diode
1x 1N5357 Zener diode
2x Kelly Industries Plus Motors & screws
1x 0.96" 128x64 SSD1306 OLED Display
2x 30-40a SimonK ESCs
1x BEC/UBEC/Buck Converter unit, if the ESCs do not include it
wonderboy
