May 19, 2023
Description
I've had a small one of these floating around my desk as a fidget for years, which has led to lots of reprinting as they go missing. The more I mess with a model the more I tend to consider improvements, so here's Emmett's planetary gear bearing script with a bunch of configurable fidget-friendly additions.
STLs of my preferred customizations are included, but like Emmett's design the real point of posting this is the fully-parameterized OpenSCAD script that lets you tweak it yourself.
The Script directory contains everything needed to use OpenSCAD to generate custom gear bearings. The presets used to generate the included STLs are included (gearBearingFidget.json.txt), but to get OpenSCAD to see the file you'll have to remove the .txt extension.
STL file naming is <width>-<height>-<tol>-<variation>, descriptions are as follows:
If you have any other suggested/requested styles leave a comment and I'd be happy to add STLs.
I've developed this using OpenSCAD version 2021.01, older versions may or may not support all language features in the script.
Parameters are all at the top of the file. If you're new to OpenSCAD I'd advise starting with just the Customizer window (if it's not visible go to Window menu > Customizer).
Start by tweaking the "Basic Parameters" section to set the dimensions, number of gears, etc settled before configuring the styling.
Planet vs sun gear size is constrained by the relative numbers of teeth: whichever has more teeth will be bigger. For bigger teeth reduce the number of teeth on both gears, for smaller do the opposite.
The "helix angle" is printed by the script when it runs. Keeping this under 45 degrees should make the gear more printable. To reduce the angle either reduce nTwist, increase the number of gears, or increase the thickness.
Shapes (in the sun or planets) are designed to be surface decorations, so they slant in at a 45 degree angle to the specified depth. If you set the depth deeper than where the 45 degree sides converge it will stretch down. To turn the shapes into holes you can set the depth to anything greater than half the thickness so the opposite sides intersect.
Ideally these will print with no gears touching each other so it spins freely straight from the printer. More realistically there will be a little bit of binding but not so much that rocking the gears back and forth with your fingers can't pop it free. Things that can help loosen the initial binding include:
Increasing 'tol' too much can result in the gears not engaging closely enough to hold the bearing together, so that should be a last resort.
If you're getting loose prints you can reduce 'tol' in the script to have tighter-fitting gears. This matters more on the smaller size, I've had very good results down to 0.13 or 0.12 'tol' depending on my layer height.
If you print a gear that sticks too hard to break free easily the best way I've found is to put something through the center hole that will give me more torque for twisting it (a hex bit driver, or a whole screwdriver handle for the large one), but that depends on having a model printed that has a center hole. If that's not the case I've used pliers (with rubber spacers to grip just the gears and not the rim) to twist individual planet gears: rocking them in and out independently of the rim/sun can pop them free.
If you have to go to extreme measures you should inspect the grooves/teeth to make sure they separated cleanly: if chunks of the teeth break off in the grooves it won't turn smoothly, but you may be able to file off the bits if you have small files.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike