Last week I started playing D&D again (after so many years…), and i decided to make a fancy (and impractically big) case for my dice set…
There are plenty of really nice “Dice Blades”, daggers, swords and even axes… (the Narsil/Andúril by Orion3D Studios is particularly nice) but since we play a more modern/sci-fi setting and my new PC is a non-combat medic, I wanted something a little more fitting the character.
Behold, a Stimpack. (Obviously loosely inspired by the Fallout ones, but should fit any modern/sci-fi setting).
- Holds standard 7 dice set (d4, d6, d8, 2xd10, d12, d20), using a little optical trick to make the bulky thing a little shorter than it could be.
- The model is designed for FFF printing with no MMU and no painting (but you're more than welcome to do some weathering on it), but you'll need a good glue. Check the material setting in the 3mf's, I alternated between PLA and PETG to match the spools i had available.
- The Arms and DialBody have holes prepared for 4mm Paracord, to mimick the tubes/cables (Yellow on the original 2D sprite). I also did my best so the dial's backside is not entirely blank.
- The “dice tray” is additionaly secured by a pair of 6x20x2mm magnets (Because i just had those on hand), but i designed it in way that should be pretty easy to modify for different shapes (even in Prusa Slicer, using some negative bodies).
Mainly, there's a twist-lock mechanism, so it should also work without the magnets. - There are two different “sleeves” a windowed one resembling the original Stimpack design, and a syringe-like one for printing from transparent material (the scale marking is there especially to help hide the seam - it would be too weak in vase-mode).
- The Dial Glass has a bulbous variant (if you have a resin printer available) and a flat one (I recomend using the flat “glass” as a stencil and cut a piece of PET bottle or similar sheet for best result).
- Futhermore, I made two different “bottom rings” with moved twist-lock nub, that allow you to choose whether the dices should be up (visible in the “sleeve metal” window) in the locked or unlocked state (the latter is obviously more practical for laying the open case on the table.)
- The “needle cap” must be permanently glued to the bottom cap. Really, no exceptions, unless you're a fan acting so in-character that it results in real-life injuries :).
Si1verEag1e
