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E3Dv6 Clone Drop In Bowden Carriage for Tronxy P802MA 3D Printer File Image 1
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E3Dv6 Clone Drop In Bowden Carriage for Tronxy P802MA

JoeSnuffie avatarJoeSnuffie

September 6, 2017

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Description

This is the Tinkercad link in case you need to modify it to fit your printer. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2X5PP4AqMwD-tronxy-p802ma-hotend-carriage

I wanted to upgrade my Tronxy P802MA to use the E3Dv6 hot end with a Bowden extruder but I didn't want to modify my firmware to adjust for a new nozzle and bed leveling sensor offset. What I came up with allowed me to do the upgrade with only the purchase of an E3Dv6 CLONE.

I used this as a base for the carriage http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1570168

And I modofied this for the cable clamp https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2351679

I understand that there are differences in some of these E3Dv6 clones so these are the specs on mine and this carriage is designed around it.
Neck Gap: 6mm
Height from the top (without tube adapter) to the tip of the nozzle: 62.45mm

The fan and bed sensor mounts allow a few mm of movement up or down to fine tune.

Thanks to Thingiverse member EnumC https://www.thingiverse.com/EnumC/about for recommending that I lower the belt clamp. It held the belt to high and caused binding issues. I've redesigned the clamp and combined it with a 2 piece bearing bushing that takes the place of the bottom SC8UU bushing. To use it you'll need 4 x M4 screws to secure the top and bottom half of the part.

I only had to purchase the E3Dv6 clone and all the other parts are from the stock P802MA. Here's how I upgraded. Sorry I didn't take pics along the way.

  1. Remove any filament and let everything cool down.
  2. Raise the X carriage as high as you can on the Z axis. This makes it a lot easier to disassemble.
  3. Unplug the extruder motor wire.
  4. Remove the fans and let them hang by the wires for now.
  5. Unscrew the 2 screws on the bottom of the carriage that hold the motor in and remove it.
  6. Unscrew the head assembly from the extruder part on the motor. This is where the Bowden tube adapter will go.
  7. Unscrew the stock carriage from the bearings.
  8. Get the 3 parts you printed.
  9. Attach the bearing bushing / belt clamp using 4 x 4mm screws. Make sure you put a bearing in it before you tighten it. You can remove the bearing from the aluminum bushing you no longer need. This link provides better pictures of this bushing / belt clamp. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2553168
  10. Attach the carriage to the bearings. I only used 2 screws per bearing. Make sure you position them,tighten a little, check for smooth movement and repeat until the carriage is tight against the bearings with no gaps between the bearing and the carriage. Gaps will cause binding.
  11. Press the E3Dv6 hot into the carriage with the part of the hot end that stick out facing the front and the wires coming out of the right side. If your hot end is different just do what works best for you. *If you overextruded then this might be a really tight fit. You might need to sand or cut a little with a razor.
  12. Put the second part of the carriage over the hot end and firmly. Use 2 3mx20mm screws and nuts to attach and tighten them together leaving as small a gap as possible. You just want to make sure these pieces are holding the hot end so it won't move.
  13. Attach the fan and bed sensor.
  14. Find a place for your motor and mount it. There are a few mounts on Thingiverse but I will be making one this setup soon. For now I used double sided foam tape and a clamp and the motor with the extruder is holding on just fine.
  15. Once you've settled on a spot for the motor, cut the plastic tube so it doesn't coil up with fully extended. Be careful not to make it too short - you can always cut more off but you can't add any back. Use a sharp razor to carefully cut, not scissors or wire cutters. You con't want to deform the shape if the tube.
  16. Attach the wire to the motor and tidy up the wires going to the carriage. You can use velcro to secure the wires to the carriage like seen in the pictures.
  17. Calibrate things as you normally would. Your nozzle is a couple mm closer to the front of the bed so don't try printing a full 220mm. Sorry, but this is as close as I could get it

Let me know if something is broken or needs tweaking. Maybe I can make a couple versions if there are different sizes of these E3Dv6 heads.

License:

Creative Commons - Attribution

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