G2s Pro E3D V6 Maxmount (Now with BL-touch!)

HEAR YE HEAR YE
The Revision 5 is out now. And I would really recommend it over this one.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3100908

I thought that none of the stock effector E3D mounts available right now were not up to snuff, so I decided to design one! (And also see what Fusion 360 is capable of.)

UPDATE 2018-01-24
Version with M3 nut traps for fans added. (See notes for additional info.)
UPDATE 2018-01-16
UPDATE 2018-03-19
BL-touch mounting version added. (See notes for additional info.)
If I may direct you towards MetalHeadz's printable bracket.

Parts needed:

• 2x 30mm fans. The E3D fans and the G2s stock "heatsink" fan will do fine.

• • Note: The fan mounting holes are made for the screws that come with the E3D fans. You can get away with using just 2 screws per fan.

• 2x M3x10 bolts for fastening the halves together.

• 3x M3x20 bolts for affixing the mount to the effector.

• 5x M3 nuts for fastening the halves together and to affix the mount to the effector.

• Obviously an E3D v6-style hotend.

• For the BL-touch mount version:

• • Optional: BL-touch.

• For the M3 fan mount version:

• • 8x M3 nuts
• • 8x M3x18 bolts.
• • OR:
• • 4x M3x18 bolts (for the lower mounting holes)
• • 4x M3x18-25 bolts (for the top mounting holes)

Disclaimer: These are the parts that I used, if you now what you are doing, you can use just about anything to mount the hotend and the mount to the effector. (I would advice against using industrial contact cement since that makes stuff....well, kinda permanent.)

Design goals:

• Mount the hotend as high as possible to maximize z-height. (name->Maxmount)
• Have adequate cooling even for >250C printing.
• Have part cooling incorporated as neatly as possible.

Results:

• The hotend is mounted 33mm higher than in my previous setup. (Your mileage may vary.)

• The mount thrived through 45mins of 260C temperature without any changes, part cooling fan on, not on full for some reason. (Mount was printed in PETG, when I get the rest of the printer working correctly, I'll print and test a PLA one.)

• Part cooling for 180 degrees of the hotend.

Notes:

• The silicone sock is almost a must for any print that uses part cooling.
  Due to the "as sleek as possible" design goal, the part/layer cooling nozzles are right up to the heater block and could cool it down too much for any decent printing.

• The thermistor and heater cartridge wires are supposed to go through a hole in the mount just left of the heatsink fan. (See pictures.)

• You may also see that the model is too thin in some parts and your slicer won't create walls there. Those parts are placed in such places where they don't really matter when used as intented. (Example in pictures; the hole will be covered by the effector.)

• The picture of the parts laying on the bed was taken hot off of the CR-10. 0.6 nozzle and 0.3 layer height with no supports. Not pretty but a few licks with a dremel and it works just fine.

• UPDATE 2018-01-24
  Added version that has M3 nut traps for installing the fans without the E3D self tapping screws.
  I haven't tested this, but the nuts should be flush with the bottom face of the mount. If the bolts stick out much off of the fan bodies, they could crash into the effector arms. (There really isn't much space to work with...)

• UPDATE 2018-01-16:

#SUPERCEDED BY METALHEADZ'S PRINTABLE BRACKET
Added a version of the intake side to take a BL-touch. Spacing is for normal V6. (As is pretty much the whole mount too...)
When the probe is retracted, there should be 1.5mm clearance to the tip of the nozzle.
I have not tested printing the part, but if you can add supports to only one place, it would be under the "front" BL-mount "arm". Though it wouldn't be the first insane overhang of this model that prints incredibly well...

• The probe offsets are (also shown in pictures):
• • X: -31.3mm
• • Y: -18.1mm

TODO:

• Finish Revision 5 and stantardize the layer cooling duct interface.
• A version with tighter fan screw holes so M3 bolts will thread themselves into the part with no need for nuts.
• A Volcano version. Though I designed this for the express purpose of the stantard V6 as my Volcanos reside in my CR-10s where they get the most benefit. Leave a comment if you'd like one.
• Probably would be a bit clumsy, but a version that takes 5015 fans too.